-->USA

Well damn. Another incredible trip is all but over. Some weeks in paradise. Some weeks in project mode. Some weeks wandering and some weeks in-between. All in all about 12 weeks and I learned from every one of them.

USA. Quite a difference in the pace of life here. Strange to drive a full size pickup truck on wide lane streets after squeezing a little Fiat through cobbled tight corners. Convenience is back. Shops are open. Internet works. Groceries are expensive.











Today was day one of this next training cycle. Driving towards something new for this year and ambitious to get after it. It's hard to explain the feeling I have when I return to my training notebook, when I settle into the weight room and I start to dream about a new objective. So motivating to have success behind me and be just a little more confident that I know what it takes to improve. I will try to make it all work for me once again. It feels rad to be back at it. Wish me luck!

holiday mode

It took me about, well, ten years of climbing to realize that I couldn't climb my best all the time. When I changed my attitude towards climbing and training to a periodized approach this fact became even more evident. I was a totally junkie for volume in every sense. Never rest. Climb and train until you're utterly exhausted, always. Vacation? Never.




Since I left Oliana my 'pure climbing' trip mostly desolved and I let some other important things enter my daily life. Some random climbing days in there, exploring new cities, hiking, enormous holiday meals, even a few days of snowboarding.










My girlfriend would probably disagree but I feel like I can actually take a 'vacation' now.. I think. Two years ago I went to Bali and Singapore for surfing and R & R. I did again last year. This season I'm taking a little break in the Canary Islands, which, after only 3 days is clearly a perfect choice.

Despite being brief, a little break gives me the foundation for the next cycle, and a fresh start of stoke. It's so incredibly hard to let go because climbing and improving is truly my driving passion, but for every day I let it go it becomes easier. Meanwhile my motivation for the next project builds.

This 'vacation' however, I did bring my Testarossas. There are a handful of crags on the Island here - the one we've seen was pretty damn fun actually. A new one tomorrow. Stay tuned for photos and my thoughts on this beautiful place.

In the meantime have a watch of this short film that I made with Keith Ladzinski back in November. It shows off one of my favorite crags and undeniably one of the most beautiful places in Europe... the Verdon.

Goodbye Oliana

My campaign at Oliana has come to a close. Six weeks on the grind, learning the cliff, the random characters and trying to adapt my climbing to the various styles. Some routes felt super hard, others felt light duty. We had sun, clouds, heat, humidity, perfection... essentially every kind of weather experience aside from rain. Not a single day of rain. Pretty insane.




I really like the way that I intimately get to know a crag after a long campaign. The approach, the little spot where I drop my stuff and stage for the day. I learn beta for routes I've never tried just by watching the masses. Every cliff has a language of it's own; down to the birds, the creatures, the conditions, the style... it's fun to learn this language over time.

The last week at the cliff was some of my best time there. Climbing that I'm very proud of and also just some amazing long days enjoying the place and people. Many of the team sent their respective projects and the stoke was high. Last Thursday I finished off 'Joe-Cita' 14d, an incredible line that combines Joe Kinder's 'Joe Blau' 14c and the crux of 'Morronita' 14b. Usually link ups are not my favorite but I absolutely loved the climbing on this route. High quality from start to finish, with a heart breaker crux at the very end.






The last thing on my list of goals was a personal best in my first try climbing. Sam was a true homie on Sunday and journeyed up 'Fish Eye' 14b to remind himself of the beta and give me the spray. It has been a life goal of mine to flash this grade and I thought after watching a few climbers before me that this specific route could be a good option. I was super nervous, gripping a little too hard, holding tension when I didn't need to and perhaps overthinking sequences. I gradually relaxed but also found an unexpectedly early pump. Resting as I climbed, I neared the finish and finally let go of my expectations, finishing the route elated and so stoked for this milestone. Something I had dreamt about and looked forward to for a long while.

The following day Sam convinced me to check out his massive route and huge undertaking: 'American Hustle' 14b. Several hard cruxes, decent rests in-between, high quality rock. Sam and Walker did a great job on this route and I am still so surprised that it's not done more often. Hard for the grade and without fixed draws might be enough to keep away suitors. It's a damn shame. I loved climbing it.




Last day at the crag and everyone was stoked up. My good buddy Uri Maraver sent 'Gran Blau' 14a/b under headlamp, Sam one hung Joe-Cita, my girl Ari sent her first ever 7b with style -meanwhile I pumped my way up the amazing 'Mind Control' 14b. Three exceptional last days, it made my final hike out a little easier.

Now... I feel ready for some rest, holidays, and a change of pace, scenery and crags. I hope everyone out there is soaking up the final days of 2015. See you on the other side!

Oliana days

Progress here in Catalunya. We have our little apartment, bathed in radiant sunshine every morning as soon as the golden ball crests the mountain behind Figols. When we first arrived the sun hit our patio shortly after 8 in the morning, now it's closer to 9:45.

I certainly have the feeling that it's winter here - Christmas lights, cute little Catalan Tios, short days and cold air. The difference from Colorado is the sun. The sun soaks the crag every day, and yet still it can feel bitter cold with even a slight breeze. That being said there are definitely days where we are boiling hot. The cliff is primarily south facing so altogether it can be a battle to find the perfect conditions. Regardless, there has yet to be a day - now after over a month - when we have not been able to climb at all. Pretty insane. We are lucky in this sense. Very lucky. 

And now my time here is coming to a close. About week left, a handful of climbing days. A few days before Christmas my girlfriend Ari and I are moving to Vic, near Barcelona, to change the scene and enjoy the holidays a little. More climbing, but a different pace for sure. It will be a welcome change. I usually schedule my climbing trips with six to eight weeks of performance and a good month to just enjoy climbing near the end... before the cycle starts all over again. 

This trip has been very successful for me. After Papichulo I immediately turned my attention to 'Power Inverter' 15a. A power endurance test-piece, there is nowhere to hide. From the first hard move to the last I did not rest - I couldn't. A pumpy finish and nerve-racking bitter end. Pretty unique and insane features on this route. Many, many underclings. Snappy. I loved it. A great contrast from Papichulo. Tara Reynvaan shot the above image and she is finalizing work on a video - keep an eye out! 

The next objective for me would provide a different kind of contrast. 'Duele La Realidad' 14d begins with a savagely hard boulder problem. Roughly with moves, and in comparison to all the bouldering I did this summer it felt like honest V13. After this low crux you have a good rest, and then a long and involved mid 5.14 to the anchors at the 50 meter mark. I struggled with the bottom. The hardest moves revolved around a super fickle right hand pocket / edge that I could never seem to get perfectly when climbing from the ground. I tried again and again. I was in no shape for short, heinous bouldering but futhermore this route just really challenged me. On Sunday, in a cloud of mist, after many efforts on the bottom I tied in for one last try. I made it through the bottom, and fought my way, resting as I could, up the gut of the cliff into a massive tufa system up high, swinging my arms to warm up as the wintery, humid cold settled in. On paper not the hardest route of my trip but the most rewarding for sure. Sam Elias shot the images above. 

I've got one more hard one lined up, yesterday I fell agonizingly close on my second try. But as I was reminded on Duele, patience is key. Hopefully I can pull it off in my last few days here. Happy December to everyone! 

Oh and DONATE TO THE ACCESS FUND!!!!!! 

It's that time... do it. 

Catalunya

Catalunya. I'm back. 

Feels a little more like home this time around. I know where the highways go, I know when the stores are open, I know a few more words than before. I really love this place. As I planned, and as I usually try to do, I hit the ground running here. After over 5 weeks of training and preparing I was ready to try hard. 

Unfortunately the weather was less than desirable. When we first arrived the temperatures were still soaring into the mid 20's (C) and for a south facing cliff like Oliana, this is... no bueno. Sam Elias and I were too stoked though. Climbing in the sun, climbing with a headlamp, trying to make it work. 

Sharma on another project... Joe Mama... 

Sam was equally motivated and despite the heat we started making a little progress. Some nights it was still too hot even hours after the sun left the wall. Our skin got thrashed. We worked up a nice little November tan. 

Our friends from Catalunya convinced us that this was 'the week before winter' essentially there is a week in mid November that is always oddly warm before the real winter sets in. We had a tough time believing after experiencing how laughably inaccurate the weather forecasting was here, but we hoped that it could be the truth. 

It was true. Like magic, over the course of a few days winter literally settled in. Frost in the morning. The breeze turned cold and strong. Straight from too hot after dark to climbing with pants and shirts in the sun. Now our progress was rapid. I was trying 'Papichulo' 15a and Sam was trying the notoriously hard 'Joe Blau' 14c. We both one-hung our routes. I sent. Sam sent the next day. It was awesome. 

At this point we were only 11 days or so into our multi-month trips. Both so satisfied that the training paid off and grateful for the opportunity ahead. That feeling of an 'open book' after you complete your goal and suddenly you can see and imagine the other lines on the wall. Walking up to the crag and wondering... 'What will I try today??' It's a very nice feeling. Naturally it was not long until we went full force into the next route. 

Up until this point I had only climbed on Papichulo and the 5.12 warm ups. I was eager to start a new hard project, but also maybe it would be cool to mix things up a little? I onsighted an amazing crag classic with 'Marroncita' 13d, and then decided I was ready to invest myself again. Short break from repeat failure but that's why I came here! 

Next I needed to say goodbye to Oliana and Catalunya for several days. I wandered over to visit an old friend of mine; the Verdon. This place is truly something magic. It's powerful, dramatic, intimidating and strikingly beautiful. Being here I feel a lot of things - inspired, afraid, humble. It was a long few days working on a video project (details to follow next year!) but it was worth it. 

Back in Oliana I felt a little derailed from my main objective after 5 days of 'rest' and several of them uncomfortable and downright bone chilling. After the seven hour drive I met Sam who generously drove down to help me get a few pitches in and I flashed 'Los Humildes pa Casa' 14a, a lifelist route, a total surprise, and a memorable level of pump. I was... wow... pumped. And now after another day on my new objective I am feeling a little more grounded back in my mission here and stoked for the next month. Just the simple climbing life and trying hard until Christmas. I love it.... !!!

un poco bouldering

Just two more weeks to prepare. Also two more weeks to enjoy the US, see friends, family. Two weeks to wander the isles at Whole Foods and 'sample' bulk items. Two weeks to stick to the program and stay motivated to improve. Two weeks until I fly to Catalunya for 3 months.

Most of my time has been indoors, which usually in mid October would be driving me mad, but the cooler temperatures have just recently started to emerge. Thankfully I did take advantage, at least a little. I am so grateful for my experiences bouldering earlier this year - not only did it help me improve as a climber but my motivation for bouldering has opened a whole new world of areas and challenges. There is a lot of good bouldering out there!

'The Heist' V12 is a brilliant line found by Andy Mann and opened by Kevin Jorgeson way back in 09. More like a route, the thing is nearly 25 continuous moves with building difficulty near the finish. I can't believe how relatively unknown this awesome boulder is. On my first try from the start I chickened out over the abyss - it's actually quite scary! Here is some less than perfect Go-Pro footy of the problem.

Later that day I did a cool crimper test-piece on the Gill Boulder called '606' V10. It was a little warm for this sharp boulder but I was so stoked to be outside for one of the first times in a month that I didnt much care. 

A few days back I got another day out. With a great crew we checked out Guanella Pass for the first time. Temps were nearly perfect, overcast, breezy... fall weather. It was super motivating. I climbed 'Mind Matters' V11/12,  'Crimping Matters' V9/10,  'Earth Matters' V10, 'Love Mattress' V12,  'Dark Horse' V10 and 'High Horse Sit' V9. Everything was worth while but for me, Love Mattress was the coolest, most involved problem that I saw on our tour -- nice work Will! One of the best things about this area in my mind is the range of bouldering grades and accessibility for V1 to V12 climbers. There is a rad problem at almost every grade, in a small area. I met many motivated and super cool climbers out there as well. 

Aspen Arete V3

Mind Matters,  Ari Prat Barnadas photo

Love Mattress,  Ari Prat Barnadas photo

Love Mattress,  Ari Prat Barnadas photo