Monday, June 15


Despite a desperate weather forecast, Ben Randolph, Paige Claassen and I headed to the Primo yesterday to get after it. I knew it was game on when I found a used pack of strawberry flavored Primetime mini cigars on the walk in.. I was fresh off of doing 'Shine' just two days before and fired up to try hard on the mega-link 'Primetime to Shine' 14b that combines the hardest (and best) sections of both 'Primeval' and 'Shine'. I'm normally not one to be too stoked about link-ups, but this is thing is legit, in that it combines the best quality, hardest moves on the wall. Daniel Woods cleaned this thing up a few years back, and to my knowledge only Joey Kinder and Jon Cardwell had repeated it. (Here is a video of Jon sending it last year, put together by Chad Greedy).

Tying in after warming up, my goal was just to try and make it through the bottom of 'Primeval'- mainly hoping to remember my beta and climb smoothly. To my surprise, I fired through the crux of 'Primeval', reaching a mid-way rest with quite a bit of energy remaining. I started into the link-up having not touched the holds between the two routes, but intuition lead me through this relatively mellow bit without excessive effort. Suddenly I found myself in the business on 'Shine', with the movement fresh in my mind I was clipping the chains before I had a chance to get too excited. Wicked!!

We left Primo in a hurry after pouring rain soaked the crag in literally 3 minutes. I was midway up a lap on 'Squeeze Play' when I reached into a soaking chalk-bag and noticed the running water streaming off the finish.. time to go.. DAMN! Ben and Paige were just about to crush 'Public Solitude'. I'd be happy to offer a catch when you want to head back. Otherwise, I'm happy to say that the Primo is all cleaned up for myself. 

I definitely did not think that 'Primetime to Shine' would go on my first effort, but I have been surprising myself quite a bit lately. All those long hours in the BRC over the winter are paying off! Now I just need to keep this momentum until I arrive in Wyoming for a week stay next monday.. and I just got word that Matt Samet (the man himself) has got something special for me to take a peek at- stay tuned. 

P.S> There is a fund-raiser at The Spot tomorrow night for the search and rescue efforts in China for Micah Dash, Jonny Copp and Wade Johnson. It's a silent auction with a slew of rad gear and guided trips going to the highest bidder. Check it out.. 

and Congrats to Paige for sending her project in Rifle, 'Zulu' and for her 19th revolution around the sun!