It's all good. I'll be reluctantly moving on tomorrow empty handed, but that's not to say that I did not have a few victories out here. This was the first year that I really got a taste for the vast potential in the area (very inspirational). Cliffs stretch for miles in every direction-- the rock here is featured, interesting and almost sculpted for climbing. The primary obstacle, as I'd mentioned before, is access, and while this is no easy egg to crack, I see the continued efforts of select individuals and the RRGCC alike to be working in the right direction.
Home improvement... rainy days are perfect for it.
a lot of hanging out- joekindkid.com
I bolted a number of routes while I was here, including a rad new 12c on the Solar Collector I named 'Space Junk'. I also added some awesome routes at a lesser known cliff that all turned out to be quite hard and absolutely brilliant but for the meantime must remain unnamed due to access issues (I suspect/hope this will be a completely open crag in the next few years).
amazing new routes...
As I eluded to before, I spent a good portion of my trip working on the Vader Project, which turned out to be quite an epic process. I entered the fall with a strong ambition of finding a next-level challenge for myself and when I first started working the Vader Project in October I was convinced that this was it-- a heinous boulder problem opens the climb, followed by a resistant mid-section and an even more heinous boulder problem at 2/3 height, ending with a pumpy and explosive finish. I had the climb down to two parts after a number of days (during which a hold broke, a new sequence emerged, etc.). I had been working the route alone until my buddy Dave Graham gave the route an effort two weeks ago. Dave found a path of least resistance that traversed 6 feet around the upper crux. Had I bolted the route originally I would have noticed these holds and directed the route towards it, but instead my vision was narrowed by the belly-to-the-bolts crux that produced the difficulty of a climb I was really looking for. As soon as Dave exposed this alternative sequence, my old method seemed terribly contrived. I moved three bolts slightly, and chalked up the new holds. Now the route was just a matter of me getting through the bottom boulder, which I'd done many times, and linking the top. I was pretty confident that I would take down the Vader on the next good weather day, which, unfortunately never came. A storm rolled in, soaked the route, and after four days of warm, dry weather the route remained wet. Yesterday a larger storm moved in, and is predicted to dump 2+ inches of rain and potentially snow in the region. Bummed, I took my draws off the Vader project on Saturday.
I could certainly wait around and hope for the best, but I feel like my chances are slim and I've spent enough time waiting this year-- I'm ready to move on. I had a great season spending time with a bunch of different friends, exploring this amazing place and climbing as much as possible. Although I'm done with the Red for this year, thankfully my lifestyle is such that it seems as though there is always something to look forward to. I'm blessed to have as much freedom as I do, and what good is freedom if you don't exercise it? Time to make a power move! on to the next location!!
still plenty of metal left over for the winter...
Static line for days!
In between rainy days, walking cliff line and bolting, I did get a few new-to-me routes under my belt. Favorites include the thuggy and powerful 'Supercharger' 14a and the amazing 'Cat's Demise' 13b a burly route with incredible stone (maybe it was my height or the gnarly humidity, but this route felt SOLID at 13c!). Otherwise most of my time climbing was spent again and again repeating some of the classics in an effort to stay fit in-between attempts on the Vader and my other bolted projects.
Tomorrow I'll be headed back west to visit with my family for a bit and have a short mental and physical break from climbing before making my way back to lovely Las Vegas for the winter. Awesome.