Friday, March 8

The Route

Sometimes I feel like the day you make dramatic progress - your first one-hang, your first 'almost send', finally doing all the moves - that these days are the best. I've spoken before about the actual let down that's frequently associated with sending a long term project. Here's this route that's driving you... you think about it every day, you take care of your skin, you train, you imagine the movement. It gives your climbing purpose, and for someone like me whose life is so very saturated with climbing - it almost gives your life purpose. 

I've had that experience many times before where finally completing my a project is of course exciting, but then it's shortly after followed with a sort of emptiness. That drive is suddenly gone, and I may briefly celebrate- but before long I'm almost bummed, thirsty for another challenge, and the cycle starts again. I'm not sure what to expect with this rig if I do happen to finally take it down, but I have a feeling that it'll produce a unique and lasting satisfaction. It'll be one of my best routes.

boyz in Arrow Canyon

At first I thought this new project could go quickly -- holds the whole way, none of the individual moves are particularly hard, and the angle is lower and more consistent than Le RĂ©ve, it's neighbor. As I started climbing on it and figuring out sections I gradually changed my mind about the potential difficulty. While no single moves are super hard, nothing on the route is easy. There's a few feet of fluff climbing but even the intro and exit sections are 5.13 terrain. The climbing is complicated and varied with long sections building in difficulty. It's basically on the whole way, and the main rest at 3/5 height is deceivingly poor. 

It's become a battle. In part because it's hard for me, in part because I've not had a consistent partner, in part because the conditions are fickle and in part because it's thrashing my skin. Lastly, it's a battle because I really want it. I love this route, and I'm so excited about the way it's turning out. I really, really would like to finish it up - I've invested so much energy, time, money and now emotion into this thing.... Yesterday I managed a solid one hang, with a broad overlap.... it feels super close.... wish me luck for this weekend! 

Can you name this wall? Doing some laps on a day off from the project.. 

In the meantime, check out this article I wrote in the recent DPM --- 

And save some time on the evening of March 20th in you're around Vegas- I'll be doing a slide-show and video presentation to benefit the local community, Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council. Details soon... 

Hope everyone has a great weekend!