DISCLAIMER: Climbing Ethics Are Mentioned Below!
I've been clipping other peoples bolts for long enough. I feel strongly that those of us who have the opportunity to spend most of our time climbing and even get monetary or other support to do so, eventually owe something to the community. This could mean a number of things, but one of which is almost certainly establishing routes, or boulders, or trails, etc. This OF COURSE needs to be done in the upmost respect for the community's wishes, and remain in balance with local ethics and practices. New routing is a difficult process that few partake in, but many can benefit from.
Naturally, there is a higher degree to which one must be mindful when establishing sport routes, in that they permanently damage stone. This is a tricky topic that many would be excited or equally intimidated to engage in. My personal ethics on the matter are constantly evolving as my opinion and experience is informed by those around me and the progression of the sport. Routes that may have been plugged with bolts 10 years ago are now left for the bold, such as the amazing 'Musta Been High' in Eldo. Access to cliffs themselves can be affected by the sound of drills and scarring of the rock. However, many lines still remain that can not be safely protected with traditional gear, and could prove enjoyable to the community for years if bolted properly. Please do post any thoughts you might have, this conversation will no doubt continue. I'll be cleaning new routes in the meantime.. manhood here I come!!
Yesterday.. THE GREAT John Bachar died free-soloing. He has influenced this sport to a degree that is immeasurable. He will be missed, but he lives on as a legendary hard man and perhaps the boldest climber to ever touch stone. "$10,000 reward to anyone who can follow me for just one day" he stated in 1981, already a legend for his incredible free-soloing practices. RIP.
Tonight- At Patagonia Store on Pearl Street in Boulder - Showing of 'Return to Sender' in memory of Micah, Jonny and Wade. Brilliant movie with some inspiring footage of these guys, produced by Wade.
Tomorrow- At the b.side lounge.. Dirt Monkey kicks off the newly added Breakbeat night every other Tuesday called 'Breakin & Eggs'!!
This Weekend- The ICF in Lander.. (not sure about my attendance- I'm still healing, but I'm hopeful!)