one of my first days on 'Grand Ol Opry' - circa 07
'I swear this thing doesn't go' -beneath the breathtaking 'Sarcasm'
In the beginning, my reckless obsession with progress led me to a number of lengthy projects. My first 5.14 was a striking granite arete above 12,000 ft called 'Sarcasm' 14a. I hiked 2.5 hours each way to access this incredible route. In the end I invested probably 8-10 days of effort to make the third ascent of this amazing climb during the summer of 2007. 'Grand Ol Opry' 14b+++ would become my second 5.14. Over the course of two seasons I invested almost a dozen days on the third ascent of this route, one of my favorite climbs to date. However, it was 'Vogue' 14b/c in September of 2008 that required the greatest investment yet. Over two seasons, I hiked over 15 days to the Industrial Wall, battling nearly all of my weaknesses and falling from a massive reach at the bitter end of the route day after day after day. Since Vogue, I've managed all my summits in 10 or fewer tries total, over the course of a couple days maximum.. which in some ways has been awesome, but deep down I've known that I would need another proper project to grow as a climber. The three climbs I've listed were all major landmarks in my progression as a rock climber.. and what do they all share in common? Tommy Caldwell. He's been my greatest inspiration from day one and his contributions to the community are far too many to list. It's only appropriate that I choose yet another Tommy route to hopefully inspire my next breakthrough.
Bob Siegrist. Supportive, inspirational, psyched.
On Thursday morning, my ever supportive Dad and I took off towards the famed Fortress of Solitude. I had gathered as much beta and info as I could to give myself what would hopefully be a positive first couple days on 'Kryptonite' 14d. We spent both Thursday and Friday up there.. it was awesome. I could go on endlessly in detail about holds, crux moves, short person beta, the hike, etc etc. But to keep things simple, I'll only say that I'm stoked, it went well, the hike is not that bad, and the Fortress and Kryptonite are exactly what I need right now. An area that's remote, wild and inspirational.. a route that tests my weaknesses, that's hard, but also eye opening.
the mighty Fortress
Kryptonite
It's very unlike me to make my goals public- anyone who knows me well is aware that I ask a lot of myself and I'm always under my own (sometimes overwhelming) pressure. I keep things to myself because I feel like I expect maybe a little too much as it is.. without the pressure of the community. However, I derive a lot of inspiration from my peers goals and ambitions (and success)- and that's what it's all about - that's community.. so in that very spirit I wanna say, I've got a project and I'm f#cking motivated!!!!
the view
