Lander Part 2

I'm sold. Wyoming kicks ass. I'm a huge fan. But, don't get me wrong- I rep Colorado hard! I love the Centennial State, and it will always be home, I'm not changing my license plate or nothing, but I am saying that Wyoming, kicks ass. Marisa and I went up to Lander this past week, in search of revenge after our spring break trip wound up getting the catastrophic snow dump.

I awoke Wednesday morning in a ray of sunlight, the Popo Agie (pronounced: pa-po-ja what? are you serious?) raging just behind me and the dolomite cliffs of Sinks Canyon hanging overhead. The weather was perfect all week, so we decided to go hard and not rest. Short and sweet we climbed all day three days in a row. Marisa and I both put in some good effort and left feeling fired up on our successes. I did a bunch of hard climbing that I am proud of and excited about, but I don't want to spray your head off so I will keep the send-talk to a minimum and share only a couple of my favorites.. 

'Busload of Faith' is a line that I had eyed on the left side of the Killer Cave when we were out here in March, but had not gotten a chance to climb on. Fresh off of doing 'Primeval' quickly I had Busload on the top of my list to try. Hard, off vertical boulder problems through crappy underclings, a mono and a fiery drive-by characterized this route. It is a brilliant line for sure and at 13d/14a I was stoked to send on my 2nd go. Another line I had eyed (who hasn't) before but not gotten a chance to play on was 'Endeavor to Persevere' 13c. Beginning with a ultra steep thuggish belly, like so many Sinks climbs, this route hits hard from the get go. After an initial boulder problem you find moderate rests throughout, in between awesome steep arete climbing in outer space- the position is rad. I tried hard for the onsight, but when you screw up your sequence in pockets, mostly you're just screwed. I fired on my 2nd go. Another rad climb was called 'Samsara' 13b, that takes the most direct line out of the steepest section of the cave, culminating in a crux boulder problem way the hell up there. Pockets for days, this climb goes on for what seems like 20 minutes.. Marisa will verify the time I'm sure. Perhaps the best line out of the steep cave- awesome, I climbed it onsight. Like I mentioned, I had a successful trip and the list goes on with hard routes mostly in the 4 star quality and up range- this crag is awesome. If you climb 5.13 a/b you will stay busy here for a while and I would bet you will find the climbing fantastic. And might I add that if you climb 5.11 you will stay just as busy with a plethora of great moderates. Marisa had some break through sends on the trip and got tired of waiting on a top rope, and thus started leading hard right out of the blue. Victories for all!

And about this seasonal snake migration thing? While the horror stories of thousands of snakes, jumping from the tops of the cliffs and chasing you down the trail are definitely not true, there were more rattlers up there than I have ever experienced before. On the last night, as we hiked out I was just telling Marisa that I was sorry she only got to see slaughtered snakes and no alive ones, when BOOM, right on the trail in front of me there was a rattler, all fired up and rattlin' its ass off. I experienced some adrenal gland secretion for sure, but we simply found an alternative route and let the beautiful snake do its thing. It was not in any hurry to attack us, it just wanted to be left alone- as they all do. 

On our last night we treated ourselves to a veggie burger at the Lander Bar, which is the quintessential after-the-redpoint spot to celebrate. All sun burnt, grimy and tired we crushed those french fries and hot sauce with the same ambition as we did the cliff.

It was short and sweet, but as it always does, a couple days felt like a week or two. I can't wait to head back next month and sample the other famous Lander crag, Wild Iris.. On a side note, all the locals and visitors we met were very cool. Locals happily shared info and Killer Cave link up secrets. Even the crag dogs were out to make friends, with which Marisa bonded nicely. Oh yeah, forgot to mention.. SHHHH!! don't tell your friends how awesome Lander is. 

prime evil

I've been busy.. In a feel good kind of way- and I'm feeling like its 'bout damn time to update the site. last week I decided to give the Primo wall in Clear Creak another chance and get my roped bouldering on (sometimes referred to as boltering). I had visited this crag once before a long time back and was disenheartened by the length and quality of the routes. But I kind of figured I didn't give it enough of a chance- I knew well that this cliff was rumored to pack a punch and anyone who has seen the topo knows it is STACKED with difficulty and sees hours of afternoon shade- which is really what drew me back. Well here I am 3 days of climbing later and I've got two busted-ass thumbs up.. this wall hits hard. Day 1 my buddy Ben Randolph and I checked out the classic 'Sucking My Will to Live' 12+, and I dispatched the sloper-technical masterpiece 'Public Solitude' 13b along with a more recent Hong-Damboise addition 'Squeeze Play' 13b/c. Both routes were enjoyable, but Public took the cake for jaw-dropedness. The two would warrant a little grade swap in my opinion (I found Public quite a bit harder than Squeeze). 

After day 1 at the Primo my girlfriend Marisa and I spent a few days searching for good climbing weather up in Estes Park but found nothing but subpar temps and howling wind.. oh except for the freakin awesome elk skull I found, and those countless ticks that we later found on one another after hours of new crag searching. 

Back in Boulder and I was soon thereafter heavily M.I.A. Had a nice dinner on Thursday with friends and then BOOOM, Thursday night I was up and violent-vomit. Friday I was basically dead, in bed all day and strugglin. Saturday I was feeling a little better in the stomach region, but otherwise still sick and nasty. Sunday I was 80-90% and eager to get back to the Primo on a fantastic sunny day so my dad and I headed out. Day 2 I took a crack at the intimidating, bouldery and proud 'Primeval' 14a, which to me, is definitely the most striking line at the cliff. Aesthetics of routes is always a highly motivating factor for me, and kind of essential on a harder route for me to get fired up. I gave a couple burns on Primeval and felt stoked, and tired, so I turned my ambitions down a touch and did a killer, steep and gymnastic climb called 'River Run' 13b. My dad put in some great effort on Sucking and we both left beat up and hungry- barely leaving strength for the uphill tyrolean. 

Day 3.. Today. Ben and I went back for a afternoon session on a freakin hot, but beautiful day. I was really excited to try and finish up 'Primeval' today and I'm stoked to say I did indeed. This climb is definitely not my style- short, bouldery and steep- but with incredible movement and delicate position, plus aesthetics and a little bit of history, there was plenty there to inspire. I'm really happy to get this climb in and get my momentum up before I head out for five days in Wyoming (and before the temps get any hotter- it was 90 today people!! a/c tonight?). Ben had a few full hearted burns on 'River Run' as well, falling from the last hold twice.. I finished with two other highly rated climbs, 'Flying Cowboys' and 'Pizza Dick'. Wicked day. 

Damn.. That felt like a lot to write up, hopefully you enjoyed your stay cause I can't offer you a time refund. Stay tuned for news from Lander - Sinks awaits!

College Grad

It's official. I am a college graduate! Although the thorough impact of this has yet to sink in, I can say that I am very, very excited about the future and proud of my successes as a student. This is a major milestone in my life thus far and I am stoked to celebrate this transition as well as egger to begin my new life. I'd like to offer a big thank you to all my friends and family wishing me well and sending me love right now! But more on that later, lets talk rock scrambling. 

I got a taste of things to come this past week, getting out FINALLY and grip grabbing some real rock nearly everyday. Seth Lightning and I checked out this incredible Eldo boulder problem called 'The Heist' V12 a few days back (check out photo). Truly a proud find by Kevin Jorgenson- how did us front rangers allow him to grab this send?!?!? It's like, right there, yet you would have to be looking for it I suppose. The problem is KILLER. This thing is strange and difficult to protect, although you could step off anywhere- you could take some bad falls too. We did some great linkage on this 20+ move beast, but decided to save it for a cooler day and return with a little more foam. Absolutely killer problem though. 

A gaggle of us headed out to Clear Creek later in the week, a crag I have not been to in over a year or more. Dan Richelson aka Richelson Hommie was making progression on his proj- the amazing 'Anarchitect' 12d (pictured), meanwhile I was stoked to send this obscure little turd next to it, 'Chaos' 13a, that is actually worthy of a burn if you are in the area. Short with crimps- ultra reachy undercling move though- beware short folk!! For that day, however, I was focused and fired up to climb on two Clear Creek classics that I had somehow never been on, 'Twitch' 12d and 'Sonic Youth' 13a. I found both climbs to be very impressive, and offer an awesome contrast between one another. 'Twitch' is barley overhung, with a short crux that requires thin crimps and deadpoint strength, where 'Sonic' is sick steep and requires some burl and trickery throughout. I am stoked to have onsighted both classics- these routes had been on my list for a long while so doing them in good style is always a plus. Neely Quinn aka (insert funny / inspired nickname here) also made some progression on her project, 'Twitch' in direct sun, so surely she will piss on the climb next round. 

I have got some embarrassing photos from my graduation I will post up after I airbrush some imperfections out of them.. stay tuned. Happy Mothers Day ya'll!!

Take Off

Yesterday I happily turned in my final assignment as an undergraduate student at Naropa University. I feel much like I did when I was finishing high school, in that I have many opportunities to look forward to and much to be excited about. In the hopes to pursue a dream of mine (as well as prolong any additional responsibility), I set out to explore some fresh Earth terrain, gather a few more good stories and enjoy the potential that I (with the support of good friends and family) have built underneath me. Rock climbing has been a powerful motivation for this next step in my life and I am greatly thankful to the sport and community for that. Give yourself a high five! Hopefully I will have the chance to do it in person as I am planning travels and adventures near and far. I'm aiming to climb and travel as long as my pockets and my imagination will take me (with the superb aid of my sponsors). I realize that the opportunity before me does not often arise and thus I am intending to really go for it. Enter the stories of J-STAR, IN ORBIT!!!!

side note: J-STAR routes will still exist at the BRC, I'll be working hard on the ladder whenever I'm in town.. 

Tuesday was a hell of day to kick it all off as well. Seth Lytton (aka LIGHTNING) and I did a killer trifecta in Eldo beginning with the short and powerful Captain Crunch (13 a/b), a highly under-rated climb that demands some grunt and tricky beta. We then headed directly to the burly cave route, the Monument (13a), for a team flash. We finished the day with a run on Your Mother (12d), which I had done a couple times, but the exposure and high quality of this classic deserves plenty of repeats in my opinion. We also had a chance to check out a couple boulder problems that I have been interested in- stay tuned for these.. 

After crushing Eldo, I headed into my local grocer and crushed that place, stoked to get some real grub in my house after eating peanut butter and pretzels all through finals. Fueled and excited, I finished my first day of freedom with a ride up flagstaff and an amazing dinner with my lovely girl. Life is good!

Photo: Myself taking flight off of Sarchasm.

The Rocky Mountain Highball premier went off really well and I know that Andy, Scott and Alden are all super excited with its success. Hopefully you were able to make it out, but if not check the Rocky Mountain Highball website for upcoming showings. The film is definitely worthy. Awesome interviews, brilliant editing plus some burl and classics to inspire.

I am a few steps closer to freedom as I continue to grind through endless school work, BUT! alas the weather is great and next tuesday is the end to my formal education (for the mean time at least) and the beginning to my dream life as a dirt bag full-time struggling athlete! Good luck to everybody out there in the thick of finals. Keep your head up!!

I included a photo of myself on the second ascent (?) of the wicked TC bolted slab at Rock of Ages called Telekinesis (5.13) I love heinous slabs, I know it's weird.. 

Grindin'

"Smooth like Diana Ross, creamy like half and half" is how Matt Samet described the new flatirons test piece, 's00krEEm' (Pronounced: SUU-CREAM). I finally had a chance to trek up to the back side of The Slab this past week with Emily Harrington and give a go at this route everybody has been so stoked on. The traffic this thing has seen recently is a testament to both how many people climb hard in the front range and also how popular flatirons climbing could again, one day become. As far as the quality of this thing goes? Lets just say I would double hand high-five Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano and Paul Glover (first ascensionists) right now if I could. So many holds and solutions exist through the extended crux of this climb that surely any climber could find their own special little way through. I was stoked to flash this thing and excited to see both my friends Blake and Emily clip the chains during the day too. This would be a killer entry level climb for this grade. NUFF said, go do it, and when you get home and the thought of beautiful flatirons climbing in an awesome setting over Boulder is tingling in your little hearts.. go to www.flatironsclimbing.org and check out potential new routes and get involved. 

And when your done doing that (read closely for additional Jedi-mind-tricks persuasion) head over to the BRC or the SPOT or go right HERE online to grab tickets to the premier of Rocky Mountain Highball. Featuring interviews with bouldering legends like John Gill, John Sherman and Pat Ament along side sports action with Lynn Hill, Tommy Caldwell, Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, Matt Wilder, Kevin Jorgenson, Aly Dorey and even... who? oh yeah MYSELF!! This film packs serious quantity and quality- 35+ athletes on 70+ boulder problems. See you there!

Aside from all this exciting jazz, I am grindin' hard to finish up my undergrad strong at Naropa University.. Only a week and three days to go, but when it rains it pours and my liberal use of 'sick days' to go rock climbing have finally caught up with me. Thankfully I will be packing up my subaru with camp chairs and climbing ropes so soon I can taste the wyoming gas station pretzels already.. 

Earth Week

My looming hangover from a long weekend in New York has finally subsided, weather in Boulder is predicted to be clear and sunny for the week, and the reality of soon becoming a college graduate is setting in; life is good.

This next week includes the 39th Anniversary of Earth Day, an event that largely sparked the beginning of the environmental movement in America. Surely the local natural grocery store will have some deals on organic produce and maybe your town will even have a little festival. I think the most important thing to remember about this day, however, is that in 1970 over 20 million Americas took to the streets in peaceful celebration of the Earth and dramatically heightened peer and government awareness about environmental issues in a society where eco-awareness was still a very fresh concept. Most advances in environmental protection and conservation legislature came as a direct result of this unique occasion. So, in addition to taking full advantage of store wide food samples and R.E.I. 'green' discounts, I encourage you to engage your awareness of the environment and make the full cycle of learning take place. One is only truly educated if their actions reflect their stated values. 

OKAY enough news.. Isn't this supposed to be a climbing site??? Well check this gem out! Rocky Mountain Highball is droppin' finally, a week from today (Monday the 27th). This film is a 'Dog-Town and Z-Boys' type flick that interviews some of the greatest legends in the sport as well as tons of fresh talent. It boasts killer footage in HD, a dope soundtrack and represents the rocky mountain region to the fullest. Plus I'm in it!!! Tickets are available at the BRC or at the Boulder Theatre Box Office- this WILL for sure sell out, so go get em!!

Photo: Andy Mann shot me up on 'JUMP' at the industrial wall. 

NY-->BTOWN

I've been to a number of the Earths grand scale cities, including London, Paris, Berlin, Rome, Delhi, Shanghai, Bangkok, Lima and others. However, I will say that New York City has got a whole different attitude and is a unique city by most all regards. I have never experienced this kind of population density in America and nowhere in America have I seen so much history crumbling below fresh buildings and excessive wealth alongside severe poverty. The whole visit I was reminded of hip-hop lyrics from my teenage years that tell the stories and define the experience of each borough, save Manhattan.

New York City embodie

s the 'melting pot' identity of America, and traveling between certain homogeneously populated areas brought about strong sensations of international travel. These kind of communities are no doubt a product of many factors including environmental racism, privilege and certain opportunity, however, one factor must be the ruthlessness and diversity of the Big Apple. I can't imagine making it in such a city, let alone making it, well.. alone. 

I was anything but alone this past trip though. I met up with four of my best friends from high school and we took a crack at the city. Our time together was characterized by old memories, relentlessly inside jokes, stupidly late nights and fold-out-couch (barely) sleeping. We had a ball. My buddies all eagerly showed me around the city day and night. This was anything but a climbing trip, and the five days of rest was perhaps the most I've had in over a year. But it was worth every hot crossed bun and Brooklyn baked good.

It seems that spring has finally showed up here in Boulder and I am excited to get after it now that I feel rested (at least mentally). School is turning up a notch to say the least, but I've got only three weeks left, forever. Hopefully my hangover will be gone by this next weekend and I can get back to doing what I do best, rock climbing some hard rock climbs. 

Big thanks to Ian, Ethan and Andy for putting me up and Matt for taking a break from the Navy for some debauchery. If I could only remember the weekend I'm sure it would be unforgettable..

NYC, NY

Front Range weather is looking up. And just in time cause I'm about to take off! I'm headed out to New York City.. you know the Big Apple, the city that never sleeps, Gotham. I will be visiting my best of friends that go way back and ripping up the big city for my first time.

I have been feeling increasingly powerful (finally!) recently, most likely due to my continued efforts to rock climb sans rope. I am not super fond of this 'resting' thing everyone is doing now-a-days, but I suppose it could be okay for a bit. While this is by no means a climbing trip (more of a, brutal-hang-over-fades-directly-into-following-night-of-drinking type vacation), hopefully I will do a little climbing, even if it's plastic climbing. I hear it costs $8.75 for a hotdog in the Big Apple, so the climbing gym will put me over budget without question. 

Do you live in New York? Wanna pull down? Wanna come and grab a drink with us? I finally got some styling product for my faux-hawk so I will fit in amongst the fashionable sunglass wearing, prada bag totting folks and show NYC how to make that Arcteryx button up and Sportiva approach shoes look GOOD. The weekend will be photo documented and undoubtable entertaining - stay tuned. 

Photo: Thailand Bouldering.. Thanks CMRCA

SNOW DUMPaTHON

The Front Range continues to get DUMPED on.. leaving the once inspired to consistently ask, 'Will there ever be a weekend for which rock climbing will prevail?!!'

Meanwhile, my life remains all too exciting by means of slippery cold runs, gym climbing link ups, allowing my girlfriend to cut my hair and reacquainting myself with the once forgotten art of Nintendo 64. However! I remain inspired- and so should you.. The upside of this moisture is that all of our favorite climbing / running / hiking / skiing areas will not catch on fire ten times this summer- well at least not TEN times maybe six or four or something. Plus it allows us school-goers to actually do some school work. 

At least I rest assured that one place on Earth is experiencing fantastic weather- Northern Thailand, one of my favorite places to eat, climb, explore, hang out (enjoy the included photos thanks to CMRCA). 

Oh and I will share some photos of my newly cut faux-hawk soon, I could really use some feedback (Damn, am I really that starved for excitement??) If you are out and about looking for some inspiration this friday- swing by Urban Pearl and check out photographer John Lloyds new art opening. Stay tuned.. 

Spring Break is OVER

Spring Break typically marks the beginning to my year end, academic-enthusiasm-downfall. This year it marks a very special downfall in that it will be my last (at least for a while). Thus I am giving a little extra effort to really give up on my school work, and damn, it feels great!! Of course, it would help if the weather was a bit more inspiring, but my recent acquisition of the classic, unrivaled video gaming system, a Nintendo 64, has helped with the evaporation of my inside time.. 

Okay, Ha ha ha. I'm only (half) kidding. I have got quite a load of school work to finish up here in my final month of college (whoa, dude). And although my enthusiasm is waining, my excitement for the undergraduate finish line will no doubt get me through.

I refuse to give total credit to the BLIZZARD of MARCH 09 for ruining my spring break.. as I mentioned before, Sinks Canyon was awesome- and our 2 days there were killer (no pun intended). My buddies Dan and Seth (Lightning!) and I did up a rad Flagstaff session before the storm followed us and dumped on Boulder. We both quickly did the ultra classic Hollows Way, for the first time, as well as re-opening an excellent V9 on the Capstone Boulder, the Oxman Arete. After the storm hit, we switched our pursuit and choice of outerwear for some extreme Tequila induced night sledding (see attached picture of Dan and Marisa) and also ripped up the BRC. So spring break was not a total failure by any means. However, I did not get my fix for real stone grabbing, and I am left egger to travel this upcoming weekend, assuming that the month of April brings some heat!

In other news.. Make sure and have a look at the awesome Rocky Mountain Highball website- and buy tickets to the premier!!! of course. Plus, stroll into Neptune and flip through the brand new Flatirons Climbing Guide by Sharp End Publishing - an area that I have always loved finally gets a very worthy full color guide book.