I've been switching my time between Wild Iris and Wolf Point - my two main objectives - as the temps move up and down. My Dad made the quick drive up from Boulder to spend a few days at the Point - we've been climbing partners for years but it had been a while since we got outside together so it was really nice to share a few belays with him and show off the new cliff. I finished an amazing new 5.13 at Wolf Point --- 30 meters, technical, powerful and varied. I'm calling it 'Snake Shot' and I'm super proud of how it turned out. I've got a couple other ones in the process. One is a huge pitch - nearing the 40 meter mark, that climbs a sustained and amazing section of solid 14a before a good rest and a really unique and bouldery finish around 100 feet up, on pockets and mega thin edges. I made some promising links yesterday!
|Actually a shot from last year. After my clinic with the ICF, I jumped on the Drifter once to check it out...|
Over at the Iris I had been trying a mega rig that links the entire Rodeo Wave wall. Usually I'm not much for link-ups, but this is the line. It's one of my favorite routes in recent memory and a savage one as well. I'd wanted to try 'Genetic Drifter' .14c for many years, since I first did 'Rodeo Free Europe' (the beginning to Genetic) back in 2009, belayed by my Dad, it was one of my earlier 5.14s. Well unfortunately my Dad was not here to belay me this time, but I did take down the Drifter this last Wednesday! Such a killer route....
Thursday it was time to take my draws back to the Erratic and have a look at BJ Tilden's masterpiece - Moonshine 14d. Packing 9a into only 30 feet of climbing is not exactly my style, but it's a spectacular line and I figured it would be good for me to work on a weakness (this is essentially bouldering). I hung my draws on the route, and with BJ's guidance I sampled the movement - a lot of hard climbing condensed into a few bolts. I got away having done all the moves and linking some up, which was my primary objective. I'm super stoked to get back to it, but for now I've got projects out at Wolf Point crowning my priority list. Thankfully I've got until August out here!
Speaking of which.... get STOKED for the International Climbers Festival, here in Lander, just a month away! I'll be there, teaching a clinic and hanging around with the LaSportiva crew. Get your tickets, make your plans, this event is rad!
Lastly, looks like I'll be checking out the OuterLocal Games in Jackson, Wy too.... see you there!