Time Warp

Time warp.
Last time I tuned in I had just finished two kick ass, back-to-back days at Yangshuo's best crag, White Mountain. The following day I was ambitious to return and take a crack at one of the two remaining burl routes on the far left side of the mighty cliff. Wednesday was a brilliant, sunny day in Yangshuo and I started off on an area classic, 'The Phoenix' 12b/c, which differs in character greatly compared with the other White Mountain routes I had sampled. Located on the right side, this striking, orange streaked and pleasantly textured route reminded me of a signature Shelf Road technical masterpiece- it was simply amazing in my opinion, and remains one of my favorite climbs in Yangshuo. A couple more great warm ups and I was prepared to try hard. I jumped on the power-house route, 'Blue Magic' 14a, which begins with brutally difficult thuggery- a struggle to escape two slopey pods and explode right to a decent edge before long moves to a rest. From there the route continues through a series of open pockets and a couple edges.. body position is crucial on this very short, ultra steep test-piece. After unlocking the beta to escape the pods, I felt confident in my method, but also fatigued from the previous two days. A fumbled second attempt lead to a stronger third one, and happily, a send. I finished the day with a few classic routes, including the newer, 'Two in the Pink' 12c and 'White Devil' 12d. Little did I know that these would be my last few routes at White Mountain..

After a well deserved rest day, Abond and I returned with a crew to session on Christmas Day. I was fired up to get a taste of Chris Sharma's 'Spicy Noodle' 14b/c, which I had saved for last. Unfortunately long standing political 'differences' between the two villages just beneath the cliff, mixed with our presence over the previous three days resulted in the closure (a cycle of sorts) of White Mountain. The Yangshuo Access Initiative is working hard to secure the permanent opening of this world class cliff, and updates on the progress can be found here.

While the closure was indeed a full scale buzz kill for my Christmas day, it will most likely be a temporary closure. All in all, I feel STOKED to have had the chance to crag at this place, and at this point I mostly hope, for the sake of the local climbing community and traveling climbers, that an agreement can be made surrounding access to this cliff- locals are very optimistic, so therefore so am I.

Realizing that my time at Yangshuo was running low and that White Mountain was currently off the roster, I took a second look through the guidebook to find inspiration for my last few days of climbing. Day after Xmas was headed out to Lei Pi Shan, were I cleaned up a couple 5.13s I had not yet had a chance to check out, including a great Scott Milton route (name?) at 13c to the right of Single Life that was surprisingly rad.. offering a short, albeit engaging crux. Another super long (45+m?) 13b/c route called 'No Guarantee' offered a wicked pump along with some grueling rope drag. I even had a chance to open a new route, bolted by my buddy Andrew, called 'Black Cloud Dreams (something like that?)' at 12+, to the left of the main wall at Lei Pi Shan. New routes and undone projects litter the crags around Yangshuo, and the process of either bolting your own or grabbing someone elses (open only of course) is almost an essential part of any visit to Yangshuo. Apparently I opened another 12c at Banyon Tree as well, bolted a few weeks ago by a visiting Spanish couple.. literally there are so many new routes that you can accidentally F.A. one if you're not careful.

After some clean up at Lei Pi, I had but one more objective.. a beast of a roof climb, clipping 24 bolts out of the giant Moon Hill formation. 'Sea of Tranquility' 14a was first done by Alan Moore in 2007 and at the time was China's hardest route. After a long section of 5.11 climbing, the angle steepens considerably as the quantity and quality of holds gradually declines. Finally, you find yourself literally up-side down, swinging between stalactites, completely disoriented and pumped silly. The crux involves a long, anti-gravity move from an in-cut crimp to a horrible tufa pinch, which you use to swing your body 180 degrees over to a massive hanging stalactite and rosey through to grab it- upon which you can wrap your legs and completely chill. On my second attempt I was able to burl through the crux and found myself sitting on a huge hanging stalactite right in the middle of Moon Hill, peering down to Yangshuo in every direction. Brilliant. Totally unique from anything I'd ever climbed. But it was not done yet, and I had no knowledge of the last 40 feet because when I fell previously, dangling in mid air, I decided returning to the roof was impossible/too much of a pain in the ass. Pressure was on- for real.. it was my last day of good weather in Yangshuo, I was tired and felt relatively certain that I would not be able to climb the 80 feet of steep thuggy movement including the crux to get back to this spot. I had 3 too few quickdraws hanging on my harness, and some involved exit moves were directly between the chains and me. DAMN man! this is why I don't do comps.. I hate pressure!

After a solid rest, I fired into the exiting, crimpy and long movement. Grabbing sometimes very questionable stone, I was nervous about my send.. but stoked on this incredible route and I knew how kick ass a success would be to finish an awesome two week trip to China's greatest sport climbing area.. I sent. Very stoked... and I was right, it was a killer way to finish the trip. Especially cause the next day's weather was less than inspirational, and the day after that I was on a plane to Shanghai.

Which is where I'm at now. Still recovering from a very long night celebrating the end of a killer year with some great friends. Shanghai is a trip- a Mega city that redefines what the words busy, polluted, huge and wild along with many others. It deserves it's own post, and so I'll keep my embarrassing New Years Photos and a city wrap up for my next blog- stay tuned.

Yangshuo was rad. Thanks to a number of hospitable and awesome individuals I had a killer time being there, despite arriving alone. The weather and access did cloud my psych in a few instances, but overall I left with a great taste in my mouth and a list of sends that I'm proud of. Thanks for all the help and love everybody! I'll be toasting a Liguan at Bar 98 again in no time..

Happy New Year.

Photos: Thanks to Bob Keaty.. A gang at White Mountain.. the right side.
The Amazing MoonHill.. Sea of Tranquility rides the arch of the cliff..

Yangshuo

Yangshuo, China. Finally made it out here and I'm completely blown away. A totally surreal landscape of karst towers stretches as far as that days air pollution index will allow the eye to see. Beautiful, 4 sided limestone pinnacles are a dime-a-dozen around here, ranging from slabs to dramatically overhanging and single pitch to 5 pitch monster outings. There truly is climbing for everyone in Yangshuo, although at the moment the peak season has thankfully come to pass and the crowds are virtually non-existent. In exchange for nearly empty crags I've been forced to deal with sometimes crippling cold.. notably crippling based on what I (didn't) pack, expecting the typical Asian December I'm used to over in Thailand.

Yangshuo is a very unique place, unlike anywhere I've ever been. The city itself (pop. around 300,000) has become a booming tourist attraction for Chinese travelers and the downtown area reflects it. Hotels, touring services and restaurants number in the hundreds, 90% of them targeting the Chinese traveler, given that the number of westerners visiting is still relatively low in comparison. Rock climbing in Yangshuo was first put on the international map in 1990 when Todd Skinner, Sam Lightner and Mike Tupper arrived and established some of the still-standing mega classics, including routes like 'Proud Sky' 12a and 'Over the Moon' 12c that climb out the incredible Moon Hill formation. Since then the area has seen a number of rebirths and cycles of popularity- most recently influenced by the very successful Yangshuo Climbers Festival that began in 2008 and then the notorious visit by Chris Sharma earlier this year. It seems like when Chris makes a trip to an area, it is immediately taken seriously.. and for good reason. While Yangshuo is an incredible adventure for any level of climber, the amount of difficult climbing here has increased rapidly in the last few years, with a mind-numbing amount yet to be explored and established. Chris bolted a couple potential 9a/+ routes above the already standing 8 or so 5.14s and dozens of 5.13s.

Climbing outside of your 'zone' always takes a little adjustment. Climbing on the otherside of the world can take some serious adjustment depending on your level of caution and desired comfort. The comforts around Yangshuo for a western traveler are pretty damn well established (especially if you're willing to pay), but still, this is definitely China. Being aware of this fact and also traveling on a pro climber (read:strict) budget, I gave myself a couple days to try and get settled in before I aspired to really pull down. Now, over a week into my stay I've got my orientation down well, I know the proper cheap food joints and the appropriate bars.. I've learned the bus system and I'm aware of the secret free entrance to Moon Hill- check. I've even had a chance to get out and rock climb nearly every day, with some success that I'm proud of too.

To kick off my try hard in Yangshuo I found myself at the Banyon Tree crag.. which features a nice collection of many grades including an incredible unnamed Todd Skinner 12b that ascends tufas and jugs for days. This was my first taste of the world class routes that Yangshuo has to offer. I moved directly left to attempt China's first 8b (13d), 'Nine Deep, One Shallow'. I managed a send on my second try of this incredible crimp and compression test-piece. Brilliant, and a great way to get stoked to try hard.

Lei Pei Shan was my next objective, and despite some terribly cold weather I headed out with a gang of good friends from Hong Kong. My good friend Emily Harrington had previously told me about China's first 8b+ (13d/14a) for a while, 'Lightning'. This beast of a climb goes on forever, tackling a technical line of crimps and pockets after the anchors of a challenging 13b. I could count the number of days I'd climbed on a rope in the last month on one hand.. so I knew I would have to step up my fitness game to send this 35 meter route. Happily, I clipped chains on my second try, managing my endurance at every opportunity and not taking any rest for granted. The neighboring route, 'Thunder' 14a was the obvious next objective and properly wore me out at the end of the day, but I was able to get my draws hanging up the 38 meter beast, stoked to return the next day. Thunder begins with an incredible 12c of the same name to a great rest before passing through a super technical crux involving a mantle-ish balance sequence followed by a huge (felt huge to me!) dyno into a sinker hueco. On the following day I clipped chains on my third try total.. feeling like my fitness could be on the return. The following day my buddy Eben and I had a short day at Moon Hill, climbing strictly classics aside from a one-star, mostly dirty 13b I grunted to onsight- pretty unreal to climb upside down for so long.. and pretty freakin ridiculous to clean your draws off of too- this warranted a rest day.

Monday was splitter, and a welcome change to the freezing temps. I got the full on White Mountain tour- which is unquestionably the areas best crag. A massive beautiful wall rises above a sea of orange trees.. no road noise.. little pollution to speak of.. routes from 5.10 to 5.14+... amazing. Nearly perfect. One of the top 5 crags I've ever been to no doubt. I warmed up on a couple awesome, giant 5.12s and quickly followed with a flash of 'Tsing Tao Beer' 13a and 'Gin and Tonic' 13c- both super varied and interesting routes with a wide array of holds from crimps to no-friction ledges up a golden 30 meter+ wall. Feeling good and inspired to try hard I moved over to the far left side of the crag, an overhanging clean white face that overhangs dramatically.. my buddy and local hardman, Abond, turned me on to his route- 'China Climb' 14b. This test-piece features a wickedly crimpy crux and powerful exit moves after some interesting and very fun climbing to approach it. It's awesome. Worthy of all great praise. I fumbled the exit on my second attempt, and clipped chains on my third.. wicked.. after such a great day I was beginning to think my fitness could be returning.. but then I then followed by getting my ass properly destroyed on a 12d called 'Gang of Four'. Ego back down to earth- fully owned on this 'warm down'.

Tuesday we were in a van back to White Mountain and the weather was fantastic. I had my sights set on another White Mountain test-piece called 'American Gangster' 14b. This gigantic (45meters, 23 quickdraws) route features a beautiful gold wall containing great, accurate movement on small crimps and pockets through a lower angle section of cliff. It also features the one and only manufactured hold in all of Yangshuo, a right hand three finger pocket smack-dead in the middle of the business. I had heard that when Chris repeated the route earlier this year he found an alternative sequence that skipped the pocket altogether which the locals have dubbed 'French Gangster'- I was stoked to hold it down for America and completely avoid the man-made hold. After a bit of messing around I found that there is indeed a sequence just a few feet to the left that never touches the pocket (not even for a foot) and even adds some difficult and super cool moves to the already long crux sequence. I was stoked.. and after one hanging on my second attempt I took a long rest and fired the 'French Gangster' third try.

I'm super motivated by my success at White Mountain and eager to return. I've got a handful of climbing days left in Yangshuo before I head to Shanghai for New Years and the weather is looking *mostly* in my favor.. The community here has been fantastic, and I'm so happy that I've had a chance to climb and share a beer with so many great folks. The people at China Climb, and Karst Cafe have been awesome and of course Lily and the family at the Climbers Inn. Respect is due to Bob Keaty and the Yangshuo Access Initiative as well, for many days of hard work, communicating the needs and desires of the climbing community to local farmers and businesses so that we can all continue to have a ball out here. Keep it up guys, this place is truly a gem.

Photos thanks to Bob Keaty and Leo Feng: Typical Landscape at Yangshuo.. Myself on Lightning, Thunder and the massive wall of White Mountain..

Hong Kongin'

Hong Kong is not China. I knew it on paper (literally), but it took a couple days of exploration and hanging out with locals to find a taste of the unique experience that this city offers. Towering skyscrapers jet up like corn stalks from the coast of a lush island that is Hong Kong island. At 5PM the bustling city center is littered with more $2,000 suits and beautiful sports cars than Stings wardrobe next to a Mercedes dealership. This place oozes with wealth- unlike anywhere I've ever been. If you hit the streets at the right time (after the daily grind) it would seem as though everyone is rich. The number of high fashion stores and chic restaurants are double that of your typical Asian street vendor or Chinese noodle shops. In a way, just admiring the wealth is tiring.

I don't often find myself in places like Hong Kong. Both because it's simply too expensive for my budget and because I mostly seek the rawness and grit that I've come to love about Asian cities. However, a couple friends of a friend (who are now good friends.. you know how it is) offered me a room in their awesome 10th story, downtown apartment and I couldn't resist. It turns out that amongst the sea of stock traders and financial geeks there is indeed a climbing community here, and (as to be expected) they are a kick ass bunch at that. Over the course of only a couple days I've had a chance to meet a handful of the HKG climbing crew and even share a rope with a few of them.

I'm fascinated with the life of the urban climber. Being from Boulder, where great climbing exists within sight at nearly every moment is quite a contrast to the struggle that is being an urban climber. Where we walk to the world-class gym of our choice, these guys travel deep into suburbs and industrial parks to find a crowded, low-ceiling room of 2 year old boulder problems. It's the nature of the city I guess- even getting your pull-down on is a grind.

But today I got a proper tour of some impressive cliffs on a island just a short distance away from the big city. Within 30 min of being surrounded by huge buildings, street noise and exhaust we were stepping foot onto a beautiful island tickled by crashing waves and adorned with some much appreciated noodle shops. Welcome to Tung Lung Island. Right next to the water one will find a couple short, but awesome volcanic cliffs that are covered with quality. I was beginning to understand where these such urban climbers derive their inspiration from. I tried to sample as many routes as I could, having only tied in 2 times in the past (month?). I was impressed with mostly everything I got on honestly, with highlights including 'The Corner' 6c+, Todd Skinners wicked 'Tung Lung Bad Boy' 7c+, 'Dimple Face' 7b+, 'Naughty Dragon' 8a, 'It's a Sin, Steal the Sky' 7a+ and 'Epiphany' 7c+. The setting and the escape from the city are reason alone to check this cool spot out.

We are heading out again tomorrow morning to sample some more burl before I catch my boat-then plane-then bus to Yanghsou. I will be in Yangshou for 2-3 weeks and I've been told that blogging is strictly not allowed in China- I will give my best effort, but unfortunately this may be my last post until the New Year... stay tuned in!!

I hope that everyone is enjoying their December either in the comfort of the BRC or perhaps you're an urban type somewhere out there, grindin'!! I want to give special thanks to Kevin and Cherie for putting me up in Hong Kong and I wanna shout the local climbing community with this link to Hongkongclimbing.com where you will find all the beta needed as well photos and maps to get you on real rock when you visit the financial capital of the East.. bring a nice shirt and some slacks though, cause when the day of cragging is over you will have to get fancy again.

photos: Hong Kong from the mountain, myself climbing Naughty Dragon 8a, bouldering at Go-Nature, The Sea Gully cliffs..

Mai Pen Lai

Things just seem to work out in Thailand. Throughout my time spent here over the years I'm continually impressed with the power of this fundamental guiding principle, frequently expressed in local tongue as 'mai pen rai' (or lai up here in the north- meaning loosely, 'it's all good'). Whether it be horrible traffic jams, corrupt government officials, a nationally imposed ban on drinking or an oversold bus ride.. things will work out and the stress level will be kept to a minimal. (these specific cases are solved by simply driving on the sidewalk or in the opposite lane, the cycle of uprising-coup-re-election, being happily served in low profile pitchers as opposed to the obvious three foot standing towers of beer and of course just piling the excess people on the back of the bus when necessary). The Thai's have built a lifestyle around avoiding stress, which is probably why westerners love traveling here so much.

While the day-in-day-out laid back approach is great for a vacation, it sometimes takes some work to stay on top of fitness around here. In exchange for random adventure, I've been taking some more rest than usual- mai pen lai. Now my motivation level is up in anticipation of an awesome month long trip East which I can excitingly say is sealed up. My passport is colorfully decorated with a double entry Visa to China and my email inbox contains flight confirmation for discount airlines all over Asia. I leave on the 9th.

First destination is Hong Kong where it is rumored that granite cliffs rising out of the ocean are adorned with powerful 5.13 and somewhere above the towering skyscrapers and smog one will find a plethora of long, engaging sport climbs..

Next stop will be a longer one in the Asia sport climbing mecca of Yangshou. I'll have a solid two to three weeks to explore this incredible area and after talking with friends and flipping through guides I'd say I've got my work cut out for me at this pump-fest limestone paradise.

I'll then be re-visiting the mega-city that is Shanghai for a new years in the night-life capital of the East with one of my best friends from way back. From there my trip is open, but I've got my eye on a few potential new routes here in Northern Thailand so my guess is I'll be heading right back.

Yesterday we celebrated the Kings 82nd birthday here in Thailand- respect due to the longest standing monarch! At the moment my good friends Marshal Balick and Megan Jepson are picking me up for a rest-day game of golf, which should prove sufficiently embarrassing- photographs to follow.

photos: taking the back seat (or stand), brand new motivation at CMRCA, boys will be boys..

Thai Coffee and Air Asia

The process of planning a trip has got to be one of the most exciting and empowering feelings. When I find myself anticipating a period of freedom and I have the means to explore and adventure, I can't help but enjoy the countless possibilities in vivid detail- to myself and even aloud to others (could be annoying, I know- sorry). 'Well! we could go here, and climb at this wall and then head into town and do this and then take a [bus, train, plane, car, bicycle, hovercraft] to this crag and then stay there and maybe we could...' it goes on and on. I love it. During this period of my life I feel both fortunate and privileged to be able to almost consistently enjoy such an activity as planning trips. This very statement no doubt makes some of you cringe- some HATE this process. I love it. I intend to continue the cycle as long as possible.

I was reflecting on this as I scanned innumerable Asian airline sites, Thai coffee on my left [basically drugs- how many violently shaky days will it take for me to finally learn my lesson..!?], in the attempts to book flights for a killer East Asian tour. I'm awaiting reply from my good friends Lauren Lee, Keith Ladzinski and Scott Milton (Sandra too?) to see if this will be a solo adventure or a group one- but the potential plans include a lengthy stay at Yangshou, climbing and exploring in Hong Kong, dance floor domination in Shanghai and a stay in Malaysia as well as a dip in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam. STOKED.

After some relaxing and excessive alcohol consumption during an incredible Northern Thai wedding last week, I decided it's time to step up my game in preparation of this trip.. CMRCA is my crew out here. This guiding business has a bad ass retail shop and a bouldering wall out back as well, right in the heart of Chiang Mai. With the help of a couple buds, we tore down the bouldering wall, cleaned a sh*t load of grips and put up a plethora of wicked problems, that, if motivation persists, have the potential to get me buffed up before my East Asia trip.. I'm on it.

A little plastic love and some long days at the nearby crag, Crazy Horse (ass kicking good times out here) could be the training cocktail that I'm looking for. With the help of my crew at CMRCA I'm also on the look out for new lines and committed to bolt some classics before I leave Thailand.

Photos: ...before and after... View from the roof of my building, jyeah!

Doi Angkhang

I love Asia; If you can open your heart and mind, and relax your grip on comfort you will most likely find adventure. If you are able to surround yourself with like minded people then you certainly will. In my experience, it is that simple. My first week back in Thailand has only strengthened my understanding of this equation. Shortly after I arrived, a number of old and new friends of mine traveled from Chiang Mai to the far-north to celebrate the wedding of our good friends Josh and Kat. While there were chartered vans heading to this remote, amazing area, I also heard that a number of my friends were planning to rent motorcycles to make the trek. Stoked. Where do I sign up?

After a crash course in learning how to drive a clutch motorcycle in thick Thai traffic, I was ready for anything. Me and my Kawasaki KLX 250 were road ready and fueled up. The drive was incredible and we arrived after a number of hours to the wedding site- an organic farming area directly on the border with Burma, deep in a mountainous region surrounded by dense green jungle and rising mist. To my surprise this area was very cold- freezing even, and it felt great. The next three days were filled with lots of eating, celebrating, toasting and exploring. We bushwhacked through jungle in search of steep limestone, we stumbled upon cock-fights, we shared tea above mist-filed valleys where Burma was just a water-balloon launch away. Oh and of course, we shared a beautiful two-part wedding complete with both traditional Thai and western ceremonies for our good friends. In a days time we all (100+ Thai and westerners) changed from Lanna dress to casual clothes to dressed-up American. The nights were long and cold, the days were short and filled with incredible food. It was amazing- congrats Josh and Kat!

This morning we arrived back in Chiang Mai and are now remembering the heat that typically characterizes any authentic Thai experience. I'm trying to organize a trip to Yangshou and potentially Vietnam, meanwhile I'm looking forward to a routine and some solid hours training my arse off. Anybody going to be around China or Asia in the next few months?

In other news.. Arcteryx has put together a short video featuring some footage and interviews of / about my send on 'Lucifer' at the Red River Gorge. It is the first of many video clips to be released on a number of different climbs at the Red- stay tuned and enjoy!

NOV 18

It's funny how a date becomes so loaded with anticipation before an event or a trip. I've said 'November 18th' so many times over the past few months, both out loud and in my head that finally seeing it displayed in the top right corner of my computer screen is almost shocking. Whoa, could it be?! could this mythical date actually exist?! Indeed, it does. And with it comes a lot of goodbyes, some last minute BRC training, heavy Metolius duffels and the satisfaction of crossing lines through my daunting to-do-before-the-18th list.

At any rate, I'm off. Like I mentioned before, I'm not altogether very certain about what the next few months will entail, but I've got a few good guesses and I'm quickly building ambition. Armed with a plethora of gear and enough Solutions, SuperChalk and glue-in bolts to get me through 4 months of steep and hot, I'll be getting after it. Stay tuned for adventures from the East.. and remember, just cause I'm on the other side doesn't mean we can't still be friends!!!

Air Asia

After having just unpacked my duffels from the Red River Gorge, I already find myself scribbling a pack list in preparation for a long trip to Asia. I've had just enough time to settle in, put in some hours route setting, coach with ABC Kids, socialize, train and even celebrate, but now, almost immediately I roll into my next adventure. Next Wednesday I depart for Northern Thailand, where I will be crashing the long awaited marriage of two of my good friends, Josh Morris and Khaetthaleeya Uppakham (Kat) of CMRCA fame. After which my future is mostly still up in the air, with exciting plans and ambitions to climb in Yangshou, bolt new cliffs in Northern Thailand, clip bolts in Ha Long Bay, or even get another taste of deep water soloing and sea-side limestone on the Southern coast of Thailand.

I'm fortunate to have spent many months living and traveling in South-East Asia over the years, and to say I'm stoked to return would be a vast understatement. I have strong ties to an amazing community of climbers there, I love the food (but of course) and I really enjoy the adventure. As of now I am planning to stay climbing and developing in Asia until March of next year.. what's to come of the following months, I can only imagine. But it's safe to assume that weaving through heavy traffic on motorbikes, consuming copious amounts of poor quality Thai beer, limestone tufa pulling, temples, food illness, good laughs and ridiculous stories will be included. Stay tuned...

In the last few weeks I've had a chance to reflect on an amazing trip to the Red, as well as attempt to keep up my fitness for Asia. I had a chance to climb with one of my long time roll-models and source of much inspiration, Sonnie Trotter, who is passing through Boulder at the moment. Meeting Sonnie was awesome.. it's one thing to finally meet such legends as Sonnie or Tommy for instance, it's another thing to meet such people, only to find out that they are really, really cool individuals.

Other than getting out with Sonnie and a solid day doing eliminates on Flagstaff with my Dad and Andy Mann, I have been sticking to the plastic for efficiency- including a wicked day at RJ1 today with Paiger. Between some writing, and a bunch of work, I've been keeping myself quite busy. I did a pretty cool write up for La Sportiva on some general Red River Beta, that can be found here, complete with awesome Andrew Burr shots. I'm hoping that I'll have at least one more chance to get out and pull on some Colorado stone when this incoming storm has passed (sledding anyone?!). Considering how much I'll be perspiring over the next few months, a little bit of snow actually sounds okay with me..

photos: Simon Carter image of Yangshou. Josh Morris Photo of myself on 'Wild Ride' 13c - Northern Thailand. Sonnie Trotter sans bolts on the Mill Creek route, 'Aesthetics' 13a (let's be honest, 13b)- Andrew Burr shot.

K'tucky to C'rado

Keep your lug nuts on lock down! We learned this the hard way about 50 miles past Louisville, ballin' on HWY64 when suddenly loud noises and a drastic change in my Subaru's handling forced a speedy pull-over. 'Must be a flat tire..' No, much better- three of the lug nut studs on my back wheel had sheered off, one was easily loosened by hand and the other was the reason why we were not in a Hospital. 9pm, no idea where we were, hmmm. Solution? iPhone-Tow Truck- Corydon- Holiday Inn Express- Folgers and a mini-muffin- Big O Tire- BooYA!!! Back on the road with a healthy portion of I-70 ahead of us.. if I hadn't been returning from a truly inspiring, ridiculously awesome trip to the best rock climbing area in the United States.. I might have been bummed.

Before all that wheel-almost-falling-off jazz, we finished the trip off right. Monday we headed back to the Motherlode. Paige had some things to do and I had been saving one last route in the cave.. 'Transworld Depravity' 14a. I wanted to be well rested and feeling maximum fitness for a proper flash attempt at this 120 foot beast of a route. I had heard rumors of reachy crux moves and of hard for the grade pump after a bouldery mid-section. At the end of the best two weeks of climbing I'd ever had, I wanted nothing more than to grit my teeth on this test-piece and clip some chains, or desperately fall tryin'. Peter Kamitses was there to offer up some crux beta and cheer me on- super nice dude. I took my attempt very seriously, as I did with Omaha Beach. I managed pump at every opportunity and tried to climb very accurately when entering the cruxes. I tried to be confident with my movement and choose my holds wisely. I've never been a good flash/on-sight climber, and going to the Red this was something I really wanted to work on. Entering the final crux moves I felt fatigued but capable. I ran into a little bit of wetness where I was hoping to put my feet which made me hesitate right in the business, but I felt a growing sense of urgency and decided to use dry, albeit kinda worse feet options. Shortly after I was facing a tricky exit move above a final rest that turned out to be much harder (and more reachy) than I expected, but at this point I really wanted it, and knew that I could not allow myself to fall. A few edging / lock-off moves above there and I was clipping chains- unbelievably stoked. Feeling heavily satisfied, I celebrated by offering my belay slave services to Paige. Which she used to fire 'Snooker' 13a and '40 Ounces' 13a onsight, as well as dispatched 'Skin Boat'13a. I cranked up '40 Ounces' as well and did a couple awesome routes over right; 'Team Wilson', 'Tuna Town' and 'Leave it to Beavis' (all 12d) to wrap up.

Flashing Transworld was a huge achievement for me. Mainly because I knew it would offer a challenge- I would have to really want it to do it- it was not coming easily. I celebrated my last night in the Red with a few glasses of wine and a tortilla pizza, hanging at Andy Mann and Keith Ladzinski's place surrounded by great people.. feeling very excited about such an excellent trip, while also realizing how much I would undoubtably miss this place.

On Tuesday we heading into the Gorge proper and to the Military Wall. I was highly inspired by the beauty of the burl there- both 'Nagypapa' 13d (how do you pronounce this?!) and 'The Legend' 13b. Warming up we quickly realized the honesty of the grades out here. I gave a good effort to onsight Nagypapa, but fell just below the anchors on a tricky sequence that took me a moment to figure out, completing this incredible line of uncharacteristic slopers and crimps 2nd go- one of my favorites of the trip. Next door, Paige was figuring out beta on the stunning 'Legend'. This powerful route is nothing of what you might expect out here- and fully worth an effort... redefines the definition of Red River 13b... Paige offered beta and I managed a flash. A few more warm downs and some good-byes and we were out. On the road and headed west, at least for a little while before the whole wheel-almost-falling-off event.

I'm sitting here, back in beautiful Colorado, flipping through photos from the trip and already missing the house, the mud pits, colorful leaves, cheep beer and the incredible walls- the Red River Gorge is a very special place that I'm very happy to have experienced.. Much thanks to all of those who have slaved to keep such a place accessible and developed. I am already planning an extended return trip, and I'm bringing my BOSCH!

Cheers.

Photo: ANDREW BURR - me kickin it before the biz on the Gold Coast.

Still Image of my flash on 'Transworld' captured from an upcoming ARCTERYX video featuring myself on a bunch of climbs in the Red!! stay tuned.. complements Scott Milton / ARCTERYX. Lastly- fall colors.. the RED in RED. complements Brian Goldstone / ARCTERYX.

A Touch of Madness

Another brilliant day in Kentucky. Coffee and good friends in the morning followed by a short drive to the crag just long enough to get through a couple hype tracks and to reflect on your key beta. A quick approach through fallen leaves and an occasional mud puddle to the base of a daunting wall of chalk and quickdraws. Warming up can come to feel like a chore. It's not the quality of the routes- they are outstanding- it's how f*ckin stoked you are to pull hard. With so many inspiring, difficult routes all around us, it's a wonder we even warm up at all.

On Thursday we warmed up at the drive-by crag, on one of the Red's best 5.12s, 'Check Your Grip'. I can't get enough of this classic. It was warm, but Paige and Andy had just arrived and we were all fired up to get after it. The night before I chatted with my buddy Joe Kinder and he got me all stoked up to take a swing at his new route 'Southern Smoke' 5.14c, that lies beside 'Ultra Perm' 13d and actually shares the same crux finish. Right off a rest day, I was feeling very good although the sun was beaming on the route pretty hard. On my sample burn I negotiated through the bottom well and got an idea for what to expect in the Ultra Perm crux, eventually making it to the anchors. After a good rest, the route was in the shade, and I was (kinda) prepared for a good second go. I managed to pull through the bottom and into the Ultra Perm crux, but my beta was all jacked and terribly inefficient.. I was stoked on the progress though, so I made sure to get my beta figured out for the top. Southern Smoke is pure fitness, with no moves harder than probably V6, but in contrast to 50 Words, the crux lies at the top- in the steepest section of the 90 ft. climb. The crux of Ultra Perm (and Southern Smoke) is hard, and there are fairly desperate moves at the VERY top. Fitness.. fitness is the key, which thankfully I had brought to the Red, and after over a week of climbing here, I was feeling in some of the best fitness of my life. On my third attempt, I felt poorly through the bottom, but managed to get to the double draw on Ultra Perm for a rest. Deep breathing and aggressive resting techniques gave me some relief and more importantly, I could feel that I really wanted it. I pushed through the crux and found myself matching two bad crimps near the chains, with a big move, lots of lactic acid and a fatiguing body between me and the send. I freakin' screamed, and tried extremely hard, and sent. I was totally shocked, and I imagine so were those climbing at the Bob Marley- after my brave heart style scream, surely someone thought I had died or something.. far from it- I was stoked out of my mind! Definitely giving a shout to Joe Kid on this route- a brilliant addition to the Red, thanks for the effort man, proud to do the 3rd ascent! Andy wanted to shoot Paige on Ultra Perm, so I ran up it, this time trying so hard I couldn't even manage to make a scream, and made the top to pull up a static rope. Wicked day.

On Friday we were tired, and the heat was overwhelming, so we took it easy (er). We wound up at Gold Coast in the morning and I took another lap on the amazing 'Golden Boy' while Paige sampled the cliff and Andy shot some pics. We made our way to the Purgatory in the afternoon, just in time for South East Asian type temperatures and humidity... I was excited to do the plethora of high quality 13b at this wall, including 'Paradise Lost', 'The Castle Has Fallen' and 'Dracula'. All tired and beat I was very stoked to onsight Paradise and Dracula- taking two efforts on The Castle. I needed a shower, and a rest day. Back to the house to kick back with some wine and bullshit the night away- typical at the Red.

Yesterday we would have been smart to take a rest day, seeing in that we were both hurting and the rain was coming down HARD, but we were too stoked. I had yet to touch the Madness Cave, and was hoping to save it for a day fresh off a rest, but it was just about our only option on such a rainy day. We warmed up on another of the Red's best 12s 'Chainsaw Massacre' 12a, amazing climb.. Over in the Madness Cave a huge waterfall was ripping off the top of the formation, spewing water into the cold air like a humidifier. Thankfully it did not taint the steep-as-hell routes and the temps were cold enough that the humidity did not matter. In-fact I would say it was one of the best friction days yet- moisture and sandstone actually work together quite well. I popped my Madness cherry on an amazing route, 'Pushing Up Daisies' 13c onsight. Whoa.. This wall is ugly by Red River standards, but the length and steepness of the climbs is other-worldly. So much fun to climb.. Paige onsighted a 12d on the right side to top off her warm up and I scurried around to find some beta for 'Omaha Beach' 14a. Giving a really good flash attempt at this route was one of my primary goals at the Red.. local badass Andrew Gearing hooked me up with the spray down, although I definitely lost track mid-way through. I tried to be very smart about my climbing and take my attempt very seriously. I was breathing from the get-go and managing pump at every opportunity. I got through the steepness without issue and felt very prepared for the crux nearing the top. I tossed out the knee-scum beta when I saw the opportunity for a heel-hook and continued through the headwall crimps, still climbing very carefully even right below the anchors- I wanted to be super calculated. It paid off. VERY excited to have flashed this amazing climb. Definitely one of my proudest achievements of the trip; you only get one flash attempt and I really wanted it. I carried on with onsights of 'The Madness' 13c and 'BOHICA' 13b, eventually failing at redline above the chains of BOHICA- such a rad day, couldn't be more stoked on the day and excited on a rest day. OH not to mention that Paige pulled a super proud onsight on 'Flour Power' 13b. Wicked, very stoked for her.

Halloween night, last night, we broke some shit with a sledge hammer, had some wine and kicked back- Kentucky style. Now I'm updating the site while everyone else is slaving in the living room painting- I guess I should be helping out..

My trip is winding down.. this is my last rest day before a couple more climbing days and the inevitable heinous drive back. My next update will most likely be from home, back in beautiful Colorado, with a cup a coffee by my side and snow (?) outside my window- sounds alright for sure, but I'm still ambitious even in my last few days here.

Happy November!

Photos: MAD PROPS to Andrew Burr!! The Gold Coast, Rest days.. Kentucky Style..

Kentucky Still-Stoked

Usually a couple hundred miles of highway lie in-between beautiful world class cliffs. After a couple days of climbing, you jump back in the car, and drive to the next spot- incredibly inspiring to always be sampling new-to-you high quality stone and it drives climbers all around the world to road trip. Wouldn't it just be ridiculous if there was a place on earth where you needn't drive to reach that next spot? where you could stay put for weeks, or months and still hit a new, amazing cliff, everyday?

Enter the Red River Gorge. In my opinion, one of America's greatest resources for rock climbers. I imagine you get the point.. I'm still impressed. And I'm still inspired.

On Monday, fresh after a rest day and still buzzing from my success on '50 Words for Pump' and 'Cherry Red'. I headed to the GMC wall, appropriately named after a ditched GMC that lies topside beneath the cliff. 'Thanatopsis' 14b was a route that had been on my mind from the moment I made plans to come to the Red. Short and slabby by local standards, this Dave Hume route is a technical masterpiece. On my first attempt I managed to figure out beta for what I thought was the crux, a very difficult dead point off of a terrible right hand crimp. This movement leads directly into another hard move involving a good right hand side pull and a powerful cross through to a poor left hand crimp. This move stumped me, numerous times. I lowered to the ground contemplating the subtleties of my body position and footwork, confident that a minor shift would make the difference, but uncertain as to what it might be. I had enough time to contemplate while my boy Benny took his time sussing out the amazing 'Cut Throat' 13b just next door. On my second burn I entered the crux confident that locking off the right hand side-pull very hard would prove adequate, and to my surprise it did! I found myself at a poor rest above the crux, peering up at a rather large, blank section of stone between me and the anchors.. some inner (and outer) dialogue began.. 'a jump perhaps? I suck at jumping.. is there a crimp somewhere? Oh shit I'm getting pumped.. f*ck it, I'll jump!!!' no dice. I grabbed a terrible rail just inches from a jug. But, it did give me the opportunity to hang a rope for Scott to shoot and also put a whopping tick on the finishing jug. After a good rest I finished Thanatopsis, so stoked. Such an amazing route- one of my favorites at the grade anywhere. On the soft side of 14b, but considerably harder than the other 14a's here, no question. Bottom line- wicked movement and a welcome change from ultra steep jug climbing; a Red River classic.

Benny trying 'Cut Throat' got me all stoked for the rest of the GMC wall. I was able to flash 'Cut Throat' and onsighted a very cool 12d that ascends a shallow corner called '8-Ball' along with a very straight forward, albeit awesome 13a called 'Snooker'. 'White Man's- everything' was baking in the sun so I headed over to the undertow to hang with my friends Tony Yao, Mike Alkaitis, Alli Rainey and Kevin Wilkinson.. all great people. I finished the day on two great 13a's, 'Convicted' and 'Skin Boat'. 12 pitches total.. I was tired. Maybe a little too tired actually, the next day I was feeling it.

We woke up to rain on Tuesday, and thus decided to head to a rain-okay spot, which was definitely the Dark Side- it was completely dry. This wall is rad. A rainbow band of honeycomb pockets runs the length of the wall at about third bolt height and offers a few tight pockets and tough moves on nearly every climb there- get your bowling ball grab on!! Warming up is a little hard here, but we managed. I fired an onsight on 'The Force' 13a to kick things off. Either I was tired (indeed) and / or this wall is stout (indeed), but all these climbs felt solid. I tried and failed to onsight 'Swingline' 13d. This route offers a super interesting crux involving a sloper gaston and some thin, accurate pockets.. super cool and different, I sent 2nd try. I managed an onsight on 'The Return of Darth Maul' 13b (absolutely wicked and perhaps the best of that grade at the Red IMO) and 'Mind Meld' 12d. At the end of the day, all brutalized and battered I somehow clipped chains on 'Elephant Man' 13b second go- ultra hard crux move! Benny killed it. Doing 'The Force' second try- 5.13 in a day boi!!!! sick.

Now I'm at the crib, checking flight status like a freak cause my girlfriend and Andy Mann are supposed to arrive tonight, but Denver is experiencing a nightmarish winter storm explosion. Got my fingers crossed for sure...

Scott Milton has been putting together the video from this last week, including an almost finished short on 'Lucifer' - looks so sick!! It'll be posted up here soon, so stay tuned. I'm stoked beyond belief at my successes thus far and to think I have 5 more climbing days in this incredible place is mad inspirational! Thanks for all the love everybody!

Photos Compliments: Sandra Studer / ARCTERYX