bouldering part two

Bouldering... I'm trying it out again.

Last summer I took a break from routes for a solid month. It was an interesting transition and in the end I learned so much - both in my body and my mind. It was refreshing, it was something different for me and also I think it really helped improve my climbing. Now I'm about a week into another month of boulders. I'm slowly remembering all of the little tricks that I picked up last summer, and re-embracing my respect for this discipline. Bouldering is f*cking hard - by nature, which is rad, because I think it is an incredible tool to improve.






Campusing and gym excersises are effective for building power but I've never felt more snappy than I did when finished my campaign in Rocky Mountain National Park last year. I'm hoping that this little bouldering mission will leave me feeling more prepared for a few of my route climbing goals later this spring and summer. And furthermore it's always more enjoyable to be outside in the sun, with good people, climbing some beautiful blocs as opposed to being stuck in the dusty garage, training day after day (which, as you surely know, I actually love).

Last week I journeyed to the Buttermilks of California for my first visit. Certainly one of the most beautiful climbing venues in the country, I've seen images of towering granite eggs on this hillside for my entire climbing life. I walked away with a couple victories but for the most part the Buttermilks kinda crushed me. It was a great reminder. The specific kind of power and strength, resilient skin, try hard, and even simply fearlessness over pads that bouldering requires is very different than sport climbs. In the moment I suffered a little 'butt-hurted-ness' but in the end it was the perfect ass kicking that I needed. Thank you Buttermilks.



I definitely still had fun... Problems like 'Checkerboard' V8 (and Checkerboard right V9), 'High Plains Drifter' V7, 'Seven Spanish Angels' V6, 'Haroun and the Sea of Stories' V12, 'Saigon Direct' V9, 'Maze of Death' V12, 'Flyboy Direct' V8 and 'Hunk' V2, among others, left lasting impressions on me. It would be a lie to say that I altogether loved the climbing there, but the gems are truly one of a kind. Hopefully the season will give me another shot at Bishop before the heat settles... although with temperatures already in the low 80's in Vegas it's not looking terribly optimistic..




Back in Vegas I have been lugging pads out on the daily. 'Power Slave' V12 was a rad little snappy crimp problem with awesome rock. 'Hungry Hungry Hippos' V12 exploited a few of my weaknesses (notably compression, damn it's hard to squeeze!) but I battled my way through it, and lastly, 'Abaddon' V12 was at the very limit of my reach so I was super stoked to take home a send on this problem. There are many more boulders here that will no doubt offer up a challenge over the next few weeks. Bouldering! Power! Hooray! wish me luck....

that time of year... winter

Colorado to Las Vegas.

I trip that I've made now every winter for the last 6 years. Vegas represents so many things to me. Friends, training, new routes, long nights, ambition, sunlight, blue sky. My attitude and experience of this place has changed over the years but my enthusiasm for Vegas remains strong.

I've truly lived here more than anywhere since 2010, so in many ways it does feel like home. I have many friends here, I know my way around, I have my favorite restaurants and my favorite parks. I know the weather and the crags, I know my little spots and my favorite things to do and see. Every year as my stoke shifts, I still find things to explore and excite me here. It's a very dynamic place.











I'm really stoked to be back. Maybe this year I will learn a thing or two about the bouldering that everyone keeps talking about. Since my bouldering month back in Rocky Mountain I have been looking forward to diving in again. I think it did help improve my route climbing in Oliana which was the real goal. The side-effects include me actually enjoying bouldering though which was awesome. The conditions here are incredibly dry which can be super tough for me on slippery boulders (I have very very dry skin) but the lines are beautiful and the tough-guy-crew has been establishing hard rigs like crazy over the past few years. I'm pretty fired up to check them out. First though, there's a bouldering spot in California that I've never been too... might be time for a visit...


Tara Reynvaan photo. 

For now training is the priority but soon I'll shift to bouldering mode and I'm really looking forward to it... in the meantime, check out this video from the super talented Tara Reynvaan of my 'Power Inverter' 15a send back in December. It was super cool to work with Tara, she has been a friend for many years and her photography has always been super inspiring to me (check out her instagram page) but just recently she decided to quit her real job and go 100 for a career in film and photos. I'm really excited to see her work over the next few years and I think you will be too!... cheers everyone!

-->USA

Well damn. Another incredible trip is all but over. Some weeks in paradise. Some weeks in project mode. Some weeks wandering and some weeks in-between. All in all about 12 weeks and I learned from every one of them.

USA. Quite a difference in the pace of life here. Strange to drive a full size pickup truck on wide lane streets after squeezing a little Fiat through cobbled tight corners. Convenience is back. Shops are open. Internet works. Groceries are expensive.











Today was day one of this next training cycle. Driving towards something new for this year and ambitious to get after it. It's hard to explain the feeling I have when I return to my training notebook, when I settle into the weight room and I start to dream about a new objective. So motivating to have success behind me and be just a little more confident that I know what it takes to improve. I will try to make it all work for me once again. It feels rad to be back at it. Wish me luck!

holiday mode

It took me about, well, ten years of climbing to realize that I couldn't climb my best all the time. When I changed my attitude towards climbing and training to a periodized approach this fact became even more evident. I was a totally junkie for volume in every sense. Never rest. Climb and train until you're utterly exhausted, always. Vacation? Never.




Since I left Oliana my 'pure climbing' trip mostly desolved and I let some other important things enter my daily life. Some random climbing days in there, exploring new cities, hiking, enormous holiday meals, even a few days of snowboarding.










My girlfriend would probably disagree but I feel like I can actually take a 'vacation' now.. I think. Two years ago I went to Bali and Singapore for surfing and R & R. I did again last year. This season I'm taking a little break in the Canary Islands, which, after only 3 days is clearly a perfect choice.

Despite being brief, a little break gives me the foundation for the next cycle, and a fresh start of stoke. It's so incredibly hard to let go because climbing and improving is truly my driving passion, but for every day I let it go it becomes easier. Meanwhile my motivation for the next project builds.

This 'vacation' however, I did bring my Testarossas. There are a handful of crags on the Island here - the one we've seen was pretty damn fun actually. A new one tomorrow. Stay tuned for photos and my thoughts on this beautiful place.

In the meantime have a watch of this short film that I made with Keith Ladzinski back in November. It shows off one of my favorite crags and undeniably one of the most beautiful places in Europe... the Verdon.

Goodbye Oliana

My campaign at Oliana has come to a close. Six weeks on the grind, learning the cliff, the random characters and trying to adapt my climbing to the various styles. Some routes felt super hard, others felt light duty. We had sun, clouds, heat, humidity, perfection... essentially every kind of weather experience aside from rain. Not a single day of rain. Pretty insane.




I really like the way that I intimately get to know a crag after a long campaign. The approach, the little spot where I drop my stuff and stage for the day. I learn beta for routes I've never tried just by watching the masses. Every cliff has a language of it's own; down to the birds, the creatures, the conditions, the style... it's fun to learn this language over time.

The last week at the cliff was some of my best time there. Climbing that I'm very proud of and also just some amazing long days enjoying the place and people. Many of the team sent their respective projects and the stoke was high. Last Thursday I finished off 'Joe-Cita' 14d, an incredible line that combines Joe Kinder's 'Joe Blau' 14c and the crux of 'Morronita' 14b. Usually link ups are not my favorite but I absolutely loved the climbing on this route. High quality from start to finish, with a heart breaker crux at the very end.






The last thing on my list of goals was a personal best in my first try climbing. Sam was a true homie on Sunday and journeyed up 'Fish Eye' 14b to remind himself of the beta and give me the spray. It has been a life goal of mine to flash this grade and I thought after watching a few climbers before me that this specific route could be a good option. I was super nervous, gripping a little too hard, holding tension when I didn't need to and perhaps overthinking sequences. I gradually relaxed but also found an unexpectedly early pump. Resting as I climbed, I neared the finish and finally let go of my expectations, finishing the route elated and so stoked for this milestone. Something I had dreamt about and looked forward to for a long while.

The following day Sam convinced me to check out his massive route and huge undertaking: 'American Hustle' 14b. Several hard cruxes, decent rests in-between, high quality rock. Sam and Walker did a great job on this route and I am still so surprised that it's not done more often. Hard for the grade and without fixed draws might be enough to keep away suitors. It's a damn shame. I loved climbing it.




Last day at the crag and everyone was stoked up. My good buddy Uri Maraver sent 'Gran Blau' 14a/b under headlamp, Sam one hung Joe-Cita, my girl Ari sent her first ever 7b with style -meanwhile I pumped my way up the amazing 'Mind Control' 14b. Three exceptional last days, it made my final hike out a little easier.

Now... I feel ready for some rest, holidays, and a change of pace, scenery and crags. I hope everyone out there is soaking up the final days of 2015. See you on the other side!

Oliana days

Progress here in Catalunya. We have our little apartment, bathed in radiant sunshine every morning as soon as the golden ball crests the mountain behind Figols. When we first arrived the sun hit our patio shortly after 8 in the morning, now it's closer to 9:45.

I certainly have the feeling that it's winter here - Christmas lights, cute little Catalan Tios, short days and cold air. The difference from Colorado is the sun. The sun soaks the crag every day, and yet still it can feel bitter cold with even a slight breeze. That being said there are definitely days where we are boiling hot. The cliff is primarily south facing so altogether it can be a battle to find the perfect conditions. Regardless, there has yet to be a day - now after over a month - when we have not been able to climb at all. Pretty insane. We are lucky in this sense. Very lucky. 

And now my time here is coming to a close. About week left, a handful of climbing days. A few days before Christmas my girlfriend Ari and I are moving to Vic, near Barcelona, to change the scene and enjoy the holidays a little. More climbing, but a different pace for sure. It will be a welcome change. I usually schedule my climbing trips with six to eight weeks of performance and a good month to just enjoy climbing near the end... before the cycle starts all over again. 

This trip has been very successful for me. After Papichulo I immediately turned my attention to 'Power Inverter' 15a. A power endurance test-piece, there is nowhere to hide. From the first hard move to the last I did not rest - I couldn't. A pumpy finish and nerve-racking bitter end. Pretty unique and insane features on this route. Many, many underclings. Snappy. I loved it. A great contrast from Papichulo. Tara Reynvaan shot the above image and she is finalizing work on a video - keep an eye out! 

The next objective for me would provide a different kind of contrast. 'Duele La Realidad' 14d begins with a savagely hard boulder problem. Roughly with moves, and in comparison to all the bouldering I did this summer it felt like honest V13. After this low crux you have a good rest, and then a long and involved mid 5.14 to the anchors at the 50 meter mark. I struggled with the bottom. The hardest moves revolved around a super fickle right hand pocket / edge that I could never seem to get perfectly when climbing from the ground. I tried again and again. I was in no shape for short, heinous bouldering but futhermore this route just really challenged me. On Sunday, in a cloud of mist, after many efforts on the bottom I tied in for one last try. I made it through the bottom, and fought my way, resting as I could, up the gut of the cliff into a massive tufa system up high, swinging my arms to warm up as the wintery, humid cold settled in. On paper not the hardest route of my trip but the most rewarding for sure. Sam Elias shot the images above. 

I've got one more hard one lined up, yesterday I fell agonizingly close on my second try. But as I was reminded on Duele, patience is key. Hopefully I can pull it off in my last few days here. Happy December to everyone! 

Oh and DONATE TO THE ACCESS FUND!!!!!! 

It's that time... do it.