Sunday, February 1


Sunday was damn lazy. It was definitely strange to be resting so much, but at the same time I knew that doing anything taxing would be a mistake- I wanted to be fresh for finals at around 6pm. We ended up heading over to the trade show and I checked in with my sponsors as well as checked out the new clif bar flavor. We also laid around the hotel and watched 3-4 episodes of Greek (that ABC family shit is just too entertaining to resist). The rain was turning into a snowy-slush, total crap mix at this point and I wish I had the foresight to see that it would be a slow drive to the gym. Instead I arrived just minutes before isolation closed and found the other 16 competitors (8 men and 8 women from ~35 qualifiers) all warming up and getting their game faces on. We went out to preview the route and immediately my eyes were drawn to a blank expanse of wall about half way up. The other climbers (primarily being wicked boulderers) were intimidated by the opening tech slab, but I was straight defeated when I realized the size of the jump required to exit the slab and enter the steep section. I went back into iso and tried to find some dynos to practice, but it became clear that just as I knew all to well- static movement is my strength and dynos are my weakness. I would give it my best though, and I did. The crowd was significantly bigger tonight and the music louder, but again I centered myself the moment I grabbed the start hold. I felt right at home climbing through the opening slab section. I made my final clips and took a deep breath before making my best attempt at the jump...and I'm off. At first I was bummed out, mainly because I was hoping to fall with my forearms throbbing and entire body exhausted, barely able to continue, but, instead I fell almost totally fresh from a huge move that simply shut me down. Later that night though, after a beer and some heavy bullshitting and laughter, I realized how great of an experience this comp was. Such an eye opener for so many reasons. I climbed at Momentum the next day and attempted the route again, still unable to do the dyno after a few more attempts, but I was able to pull through the jump and climb to the high point from the night before on my first try. If I compete again I will come prepared to jump, that's for sure. 
The womens final route was awesome, and I was stoked on the other kick ass routes Momentum had to offer as well- this place is a killer facility and I strongly suggest checkin it out next time you are in Salt Lake. I got such a great response from my peers back in Boulder and everyone was quick to offer their congrats on my 5th place overall. Given the quality of athletes at this event I am stoked that I even made finals. Best of all I got to kick it with some good friends and enjoy the unique scene that is comp climbing. If I am around next year I will for sure be returning to SCS Nationals and I am planning on attending the BCS Invitational in March at the BRC- as should you!!! Like I mentioned before Marisa wrote a really cool article on the SCS Nationals including some interviews and nice photos that should publish tomorrow (monday the 2nd)- I will post a link. But in the mean time here is a brief on and a short video on Momentum Video Mag. The photos included are John Evans Photos. Oh and big congrats to Carlo, Dave, Ethan and Julian for a kick ass performance on Sunday night and of course the ladies: Emily, Paige, Sasha, Sydney and Alex.