Monday, May 18

prime evil

I've been busy.. In a feel good kind of way- and I'm feeling like its 'bout damn time to update the site. last week I decided to give the Primo wall in Clear Creak another chance and get my roped bouldering on (sometimes referred to as boltering). I had visited this crag once before a long time back and was disenheartened by the length and quality of the routes. But I kind of figured I didn't give it enough of a chance- I knew well that this cliff was rumored to pack a punch and anyone who has seen the topo knows it is STACKED with difficulty and sees hours of afternoon shade- which is really what drew me back. Well here I am 3 days of climbing later and I've got two busted-ass thumbs up.. this wall hits hard. Day 1 my buddy Ben Randolph and I checked out the classic 'Sucking My Will to Live' 12+, and I dispatched the sloper-technical masterpiece 'Public Solitude' 13b along with a more recent Hong-Damboise addition 'Squeeze Play' 13b/c. Both routes were enjoyable, but Public took the cake for jaw-dropedness. The two would warrant a little grade swap in my opinion (I found Public quite a bit harder than Squeeze). 

After day 1 at the Primo my girlfriend Marisa and I spent a few days searching for good climbing weather up in Estes Park but found nothing but subpar temps and howling wind.. oh except for the freakin awesome elk skull I found, and those countless ticks that we later found on one another after hours of new crag searching. 

Back in Boulder and I was soon thereafter heavily M.I.A. Had a nice dinner on Thursday with friends and then BOOOM, Thursday night I was up and violent-vomit. Friday I was basically dead, in bed all day and strugglin. Saturday I was feeling a little better in the stomach region, but otherwise still sick and nasty. Sunday I was 80-90% and eager to get back to the Primo on a fantastic sunny day so my dad and I headed out. Day 2 I took a crack at the intimidating, bouldery and proud 'Primeval' 14a, which to me, is definitely the most striking line at the cliff. Aesthetics of routes is always a highly motivating factor for me, and kind of essential on a harder route for me to get fired up. I gave a couple burns on Primeval and felt stoked, and tired, so I turned my ambitions down a touch and did a killer, steep and gymnastic climb called 'River Run' 13b. My dad put in some great effort on Sucking and we both left beat up and hungry- barely leaving strength for the uphill tyrolean. 

Day 3.. Today. Ben and I went back for a afternoon session on a freakin hot, but beautiful day. I was really excited to try and finish up 'Primeval' today and I'm stoked to say I did indeed. This climb is definitely not my style- short, bouldery and steep- but with incredible movement and delicate position, plus aesthetics and a little bit of history, there was plenty there to inspire. I'm really happy to get this climb in and get my momentum up before I head out for five days in Wyoming (and before the temps get any hotter- it was 90 today people!! a/c tonight?). Ben had a few full hearted burns on 'River Run' as well, falling from the last hold twice.. I finished with two other highly rated climbs, 'Flying Cowboys' and 'Pizza Dick'. Wicked day. 

Damn.. That felt like a lot to write up, hopefully you enjoyed your stay cause I can't offer you a time refund. Stay tuned for news from Lander - Sinks awaits!