Friday, May 15

Le Cadre

A few weeks remaining in Europe. Here in Ceuse since early May. I'm planning my final days and even looking ahead to summer plans back in the US. Somehow Ceuse is even more spectacular than I remembered. Many good friends are around and the weather has been great. Climbers are a fun, insightful and diverse group of people. We all hike up the mountain every day and suffer / enjoy projects together. Many different languages at the cliff. Goat cheese. Sunsets. 

Mirage, 7c+ on the Cascade Sector. One of the best pitches at this (or any) grade in the world. Long, featured, incredible stone, beautiful position. A true masterpiece of a climb. I also climbed 'Face de Rat' 8a+ yesterday and was equally blown away. 

I've been battling with this route, 'Le Cadre Nouvelle' 9a since we arrived in Ceuse early in the month. It has a little taste of everything, some sections suited me really well and others were very demanding. A classic power move (just below the one pictured), kept me coming back again and again. I'm not a dynamic or snappy climber - it's one of my glaring weaknesses - but the move was a brilliant challenge. From hanging it became easy, from just a few moves in it often felt impossible. This kind of movement, so low percentage and unpredictable, can resist for weeks. The first time I stuck the move from the ground was on Wednesday and thankfully I punched it to the finish. With my timeline here winding down I felt quite nervous about this climb, especially the more I fell in love with it - the more I wanted it. I'm very excited to have done it, and furthermore to enjoy the last climbing days here. For me this was a hard one and a memorable one. I learned a lot from this route.

Life is great. Enjoy the weekend everyone!! Summer is here.