OR ETC prt 3

Part three. The final installment. Three back-to-back updates is my way of trying to overcome the shame of not updating for over two weeks! but I will admit, it was a welcome escape to leave my computer at home over the last trip. It's been hectic getting all aspects of my life put together, as it always is when you try and diligently pack every and all responsibilities into your two weekly rest days.. please don't mistake the previous sentence for a complaint however, life is fantastic, and I wouldn't have it any other way.

rest day mini-golfing, like a pro

Moving right along.. After a couple days climbing and hanging in Salt Lake, I made my way for Rifle. Temps are finally starting to cool off a bit around Colorado, but I have to say I've been super impressed (and stoked) with how climbable rifle is in the kind of heat that would make most other burly areas completely miserable. It's not like I'm warming up in direct sun or anything, but still, daytime highs of mid 80s in the canyon, and still feeling capable is pretty cool (no pun intended). Day one I hooked up with my friends Lauren and Nate, and got to check out a few new-to-me walls. I did 'Thieves' 13a at the Wasteland, which I whole heartedly thought was bad ass- a great rock climb on fantastic stone. I also got to check out the Bauhaus, home to most of Rifle's hardest climbs. I decided to have a go at 'Roadside Prophet' 14a, a super cool, ultra long pitch with some thuggery around the bottom and some pumpery towards the top. I was stoked to manage the reachy moves at the bottom, and super excited to finish it that night on my third attempt. The following morning I took a crack at a new extension to 'Living in Fear' 13d that Sam Elias had bolted. This incredible extended pitch stacks some additional difficulty right on top of the last boulder problem in Living.. without rest. Then follows up by finishing up some tech 5.12 climbing to the final crux exit move on 'Sometimes Always'. It's freaking awesome. I was stoked right away, but only got one attempt before I had to take off to see some of my old time best friends over in Winter Park.

a proper night out is not complete without some duck hunting

After a day of hanging out in WP, I returned with the extension on my mind. Sam was now back from his trip to Mexico, and seeing in that he had yet to try it himself, he was obviously stoked as well. We exchanged beta, and when I was warmed up and ready, he offered me a catch. Somewhat to my surprise, I fired through Living feeling great, and continued through the crux and to the rest on the extension. From here I got running beta from Sam and Joey Kinder to finish the pitch (I had yet to climb the last 4 bolts or so). I asked Sam's permission before I clipped the chains. Although I did technically climb this route first, Sam deserves all praise for his efforts, vision and time invested. I'm super grateful to be part of the first ascent team on 'Living the Dream' 14a/b, Rifle's new endurance test piece. Sam dispatched next try.

Sam is 'Living the Dream' - photos thanks to JOEY KINDER

Later that afternoon, I decided it was time to strap on 2 of them dang sticky thigh straps and get my KNEEBAR on. This is a skill that I'm seriously lacking, and it's something I need to perfect if I wish to succeed on future goals. I tried the neighboring route, 'Present Tense' 13d, a very interesting and kneebar intensive power route. First try I hung like a champ, A LOT.. it was cool though, I knew I needed practice. After a solid rest I came back, expecting to rehearse and continue sussing (and hanging), but I remained focused on one move at a time, finding the strange rests and trusting those damn kneepads when I could, I all of a sudden found myself below the final crux- a sequential bulge- where I took a moment to think over the movement and grab a quick rest before carrying on to the summit. Very excited about this accomplishment- kneebars are actually quite tricky and hard to get used to, so I took this route (where I used 11 kneebars) as a proper start to my training on the topic.

The next morning I enjoyed a couple repeat climbs and the company of friends before heading back to Boulder before traffic could hinder my commute. It was no doubt good to arrive home and do 'home' stuff. Boulder is a killer spot to call home. Now I'm on the weekly program while I get into a regular schedule of setting routes more frequently to save some money for a long trip to the South East I have planned for the fall. With every passing day, us obsessive rock climbers can begin to feel the fall breeze slowly edging it's way into our lives, beckoning our hoarded sick days and encouraging our patience for the beloved autumn. SOON!

Da Kine Corner= HARD, Andy Mann image

Lastly.. over at the Climbing Magazine website, there's a slew of kick ass images from our recent trip to the incredible Smith Rock, Oregon. Have a look here.

OR ETC prt 2

After leaving Maple, I made my way back up to Salt Lake despite some sweltering temps to try and get out and grip some limestone. Day one, Lauren Lee, Keith Ladzinski, Randyl Nielson and I got motivated to check out American Fork canyon and try and get some shooting done. The day turned out to be overcast which made the temperatures tolerable albeit not prime. Despite the certain lack of sending temps, we did manage to get some sending done. American Fork is about 40 minutes south of Salt Lake and offers a plethora of diverse limestone crags. Hell and the El Diablo wall are perhaps the best known, for their short, finger intensive boulder problems that have been protected with bolts (joking. although the routes are very short and intense and a number of them have been bouldered out). Regardless, it was a shocking change from the endless horizontal jugs of Maple- and I was feeling kinda stoked on it. I dispatched the super cool, power endurance route, 'Body Count' 13d and flashed the seriously amazing 'Malvado' 13a. Randyl and Keith fired off some impressive photos. Sometime in the middle of the day Jacinda Hunter and her husband Mike arrived to hang out.. J.C. freaking owns AF, and you can tell by her wealth of accomplishments (and beta) in the area. She just recently established a 14b called Fantasy Island in the canyon- all the while having a family (a big one at that). Unfortunately I was unable to check out her new route, but I'd guess I should wait for better temps anyways. They are both awesome individuals and were stoked to see us out pulling at AF regardless of the heat.

Nielson Photos of 'Body Count'

Next day I returned with my hosts and good friends Leif and Lindsey Gasch. I warmed up and got psyched to try the classic burl route, 'Dead Souls' 14a. Leif got stoked next door on the super hard 13b, Inferno. We both suffered.. although he had the excuse of having just taken a month off.. I was excuse-less, so I decided to take it easy and support Lindsey across the river on 'Jug Abuse' 13c. She made rad progress, I hung out with the dogs, and we went home a happy little unit of non-senders.

Leif non-sending. whatever though he fired it the next day!.. 'Little G' 13c

Next morning we returned and I meant business cause I was planning on taking off to rifle the following day. I felt a bit torn up from my three days in Maple and then two at AF with only one day of kinda rest inbetween, but I happily managed to fire Dead Souls first try, and later in the day, put 'San Miguel' 13c to rest with hardly any fuel left. I was actually very excited to have done DS, partially cause it felt so hard at first, but also cause it's a route I had heard about and recognized as a canyon classic. We tore up some super duty Margs and whatnot at the Mexican food spot to celebrate our day at El Diablo.

Ladzinski image. Sickness.

Hanging in Salt Lake for a couple days was rad. I could see myself living there at some point- the people are super cool, the access to climbing is year round and hard to beat (other than Boulder, only cause our climbing is so damn close) and the city has a lot going on. I always enjoy heading there a couple times a year. Maybe if I'm really psyched I can strap some skis on my feet at the 2011 winter OR.

The next day I got in the studio with a photographer and great friend of mine, Dan Morris. His studio photography is truly some of the best I've seen. We knew each other through his brothers guiding business in Northern Thailand, where he's done a bunch of awesome work in and around South East Asia. We shot some randomly inspired studio stuff that turned out pretty damn cool- have a look at a couple here. More images should be up soon.

That night I took off for a couple days in Rifle, an area I'm slowly getting more and more interested in. It was a killer couple days, and some rad stuff went down.. stay tuned for the next installation!

OR ETC, Prt 1

A whole bunch of life has taken place since I last updated.. firstly- BOOM! new website. But I'll back track a little and get into the happenings of the last two weeks, which, due to current time restraints, will have to be cut into sections- it's like three posts for the price of one!!

Paige and I ripped up I-70 in the WRX after a day in Rifle to explore the Summer Outdoor Retailer Trade Show and hang with some of our good friends in Salt Lake. Despite what many people openly express about OR, I typically have a good time there. Thankfully I've nothing too unbelievably important going on (that's likely the reason why it's fun) and there's always a gaggle of friends around to chat with - frequently too many for just a few days actually. First off, I finally got to meet the super cool and talented Boone Speed during a Sportiva photo shoot and hang with the Sportiva alpinist crew, including my buddy Steve House. We had a bunch of laughs and consumed copious amounts of pizza. Over at the trade show, all of my sponsors exhibited rad new products for 2011.. Arcteryx is releasing the new Phase base layering system which is nothing short of awesome. Metolius has a new line of crash pads featuring some killer graphics and a built in carpet. Sportiva has a couple flashy new running shoes and a new climbing shoe that is a cross between a Solution and a Cobra (I know.. you're stoked) and Sterling has remade the Ion 9.5 (now 9.4) with a better weave and some new colors.

And, if you were wondering, my favorite two dogs ever, Amico and Bodhi (pictured above), well, they're pretty much doing the same old shit for 2011- which brings me to my next topic.. Our good friends Leif and Lindsey put us up and showed us a great time around SLC. Shortly after the show we shot down to Maple Canyon to sample the mind cobbling boggles I have heard so much about.

Ally climbs out the 'Great Feast'

It was our first time there, and given the amount of spray, I think we expected a lot. The camping was top notch, the landscape was totally spectacular, and the climbing was.. alright. I don't think either Paige nor I are super stoked on roof climbing, but we had a killer time none the less. The Pipe Dream is mega. It's an upside down sea of cobbles fixed by a sometimes questionable matrix and a heap of Sika. The climbing is very unique and physical- mostly jugs, close to zero technical ability needed through giant roofs with the occasional knee-bar. It's not my preferred style, or my strength, but it was a shoulder busting, arm swelling good time no doubt. At the end of the first day, my biceps were on fire! It was as though I had lifted crates of heavy bricks for hours (a.k.a. route setting).. thankfully my forearms seemed to be alright so naturally I was prepared for another day of hard work.

We stayed for a total of three days, climbing throughout. Day one I onsighted the classic entry-level burl route, 'Sprout' 13a and nearly flashed the literally more-than-horizontal, 'Millennium' 13d, which I excitedly fired second try. Day two I got through my favorite Maple route - 'Wyoming Sheep Shagger' 13d, second try and then carried on to finish up the T-Rex extension making 'Mutton Bustin' 5.14 a/b (everything at the Pipe Dream has an extension, alternative ending, a link-up or a sissy version- there is no lack of options) I followed up with a lap on 'Toxic Turkey' 13c (?) second try and returned to the campsite with whimpering biceps. Day three we checked out the Compound - a really cool crag up the road from the camping that features more textured cobbles and shorter, more bouldery climbs. I warmed up and did 'Ballocks' 13a before Paige and our friend Ally Dorey had to bail back towards Colorado. Alone, and in search of a proper pump, I wandered up to the Pipe Dream to belay Spencer McCroskey as he killed 'Whole Shot' 13d and his triumph inspired me to do 'Mexican Rodeo' 13d first try. That night I shared drinks and laughs with the always welcoming Seattle crew before taking off for Salt Lake the following morning.

Myself, lost in a sea of cobbles on 'Muttin Bustin'

On my way out I stopped and snapped a few quick photos of the turkey ranch right outside Maple. This was just days after I had started exploring the possibilities of eating meat again (I've been a vegetarian for 4 years).. and being so brutally reminded of the conditions millions of animals suffer to become our food quickly repressed any desire for a burger I had been having. There were probably 2 dozen of these facilities. Yummy!

no really! we're totally comfortable

the second installment will be up shortly.. until then, have a look around the new super fly website! Thanks to Andy Mann for use of his images for the site.

OR and things

Don't be alarmed if suddenly feel a slight gravitational misalignment beginning early next week.. for a long four days, the center of the universe - most often known to be Boulder, Colorado - will momentarily shift 400 miles westward, to none other than the City of Salt Lake. OH yes people, it's once again time for the Summer Outdoor Retailer Show.. and as much as I (and everyone else in the outdoor industry) joke about how much this event sucks- it's can actually be quite fun. (in limited quantities, if you're not busy and too highly caffeinated, yet feel like you have a purpose, and your food options have not been reduced to yet another clif bar sample or the corndog stand, etc.) Needless to say, I'm stoked. Seriously. It's a good time to catch up with people, have a look at upcoming products, chat with sponsors and acquire endless chap-stick, sample bars and various key chain items. Before the show Paige and I are going to get a couple days in at Rifle, and hopefully we'll bank a couple smarmy days climbing classics around SLC, before I head off solo for a bit.

random photo: two of my favorite things.. at the same time!

Over the past week I've gotten in to set some magic plastic at the Boulder Rock Club along with chucking some laps at the Monastery and belaying Paige around Estes. I also made my way out to Rifle, for a couple days and hooked up with some great friends Joel and Melissa Love. My goal with Rifle at this point is simply to develop the necessary skill set that is unique to the blocky limestone found at Rifle and keep motivation and fitness high between now and my long trip to the South-East beginning in October. Seeing in that I waited so long to finally climb at Rifle, now I've got a canyon literally packed with difficult routes to test myself on. As I've managed to pick up some of the style over my initial few visits, it continues to get more and more fun, albeit still challenging.

I found some success and a touch of frustration this past week, again reminded of one of Rifles golden rules: BETA. Nowhere have I ever climbed that beta is so important- a small change can literally add or subtract a letter grade with ease. On my flash attempt of the 'Apocalypse Extension' 13b/c, my foot slipped while trying to use poor beta. My foot slipped again (BETA!) on my second attempt, only to frustratingly find that I was making things way too hard for myself (BETA!) and lowered to the ground immediately, tied in, and fired it. My beta was (mostly) spot on for flashes on the classic 'Pump-O-Rama' 13a and 'Philibuster' 13a. However, the golden rule struck again on the incredible 'Living in Fear' 13d, when I fell from a finishing move on my second attempt... I made the mistake once again the following day- then I found a hidden, heavily chalked undercling and fired it. (Only in Rifle can a hold be both 'hidden' and 'heavily chalked'). It's good - it's simply part of the game there and I'm stoked to be picking up on it. Seasoned rifle junkies begin to know what to look for (knee-bars, drop-knees, undercling there, pinch here, squeeze this, etc.) and I can see that they have a talent for this kind of stone - Sam Elias is a perfect example - dude is DIALED on Rifle. He's been crushing there for years, and you can see it in his abilities there - it's impressive. Before I move on, I just want to mention that Living in Fear is a five star rock climb- to think that such a consistently difficult and enjoyable climb exists is mind boggling- do this climb.

random photo: nothing like a comforting 'hand belay'

Tonight we're off to have a long awaited proper night out with a gang of good friends and the talented Sydney Blu, and tomorrow we're headed towards the gravitational pulse in Northern Utah.. I'll be studying my notes on Rifle and practicing my knee-bars between the cooler and the back of the seat in my car for our first trip to Maple!

full-time

I guess I always figured that when I took the leap (or dive) into climbing full-time, after finishing my undergrad, that I would inevitably find myself overwhelmed with free time.. I even said to myself, 'I'm going to have to pick up a new hobby.. like soccer, or knitting, or XBOX or something'..Well, it turns out, that here I am, over a year from my last college class, and the days are cranking by. I could never continue at this pace if I wasn't so passionate about this pursuit, about this community and about taking every opportunity I could.

there's lots of sky over Wyoming

I begin my entry with this, given that it's been a little while since I last updated. I really enjoy writing up my experience, in part to share it, but also to have a moment to relax and appreciate the previous week or so. Needless to say, I've been busy- and it's been awesome.

B Real on 'Rode Hard' 12c at the ICF

So, firstly, the International Climbers Festival in Lander.. This was the first climbers festival type event I'd ever been to, and I was thoroughly impressed with it. It's in it's 17th year, after the late GREAT Todd Skinner started it all and it's still running smoothly and attracting hundreds. There are tons of various events happening everyday, including loads of free meals, slide-shows, film fests, comps, clinics and all that- a KILLER deal and an excess of good times for only $50. Paige and I got a couple days of pocket grabbing in up at the beautiful Wild Iris, before heading into town for the weekend, where we helped serve one of the feasts, check out some movies, and I got sucked into MC'ing the Dyno Comp (which turned out to be a hell of a good time!). I will certainly be visiting more of such events- It's a chance to meet people and talk a lot of sh*t about climbing without actually climbing that much- which is not a bad thing every now and then. However, we did manage to grab some stone as I mentioned, and I was pleased to put down 'Atomic Cow' 13d, 'Copenhagen Angel' 13b and 'Boy' 13a (HARD!) quickly along with flashing 'Last Man Standing' 13b, which more or less wraps up my desire to climb at the Iris- aside from strictly enjoying the wicked setting.

sunset over the Iris

Tuesday I finally got the chance to hook up with fellow Arcteryx Athlete and all-around mega bad ass, Rob Pizem. He'd been bugging me about checking out a high altitude crag he's been working on for years up on Mt. Evans- The Possibilities Wall (aka the P-Wall). He gave me the grand tour, and I had a chance to even help establish a couple new routes during our long day out. Climbing and hanging at this wall reminded me of when I was working on my first 5.14 back in 2007- 'Sarchasm' on Long's Peak (at around 12,500ft). At just around the same elevation, the P-Wall requires some series red-blood cells.. even the 5.11 'warm-up' seemed strenuous.. but my time at the Iris and Wizards Gate did me well in the end- I flashed a absolutely ridiculous, HUGE traditional route called 'It's a Homonym' 12c and onsighted a crazy hanging traverse called 'Vacation from Your Problems' 13b. On the to-do list was also to lay eyes on Pizem's mega-proj, 'Hopeless' which is sure to be the hardest high altitude route in the country when it goes.. with Pizem moving to the western slope, it may be time to get a Mt. Evans pass and dig up some willing belayers.

Pizem, enjoying a 'Vacation from [his] Problems' 13b

For the remainder of the week I made finishing up business around the Wizard's Gate my priority. Day after day I hiked in to a newer zone, dubbed the 'Lighthouse' (although it's been previously known as Crosswinds) to wrap up some bolting efforts I had started there. After days of work and almost 50 hangers, the result is a whole new spot to escape to when the Front Range heat is getting you down. I'm super stoked to be (90%) finished with this cool new spot, and psyched to see some of the Wizard's Gate crowd spill over and have a look.

bolting, 'Grippin' the Cutlass' 12+

I've come to terms with the existence of jugs and ledges. Typically when I first rap down a wall, I'm filled with anxiety about the potential (and seemingly inevitable) existence of rests, jugs, ledges, etc. Naturally I want to discover a cutting edge route- and also something that tests my abilities- but I've become aware, by the crowds of excited individuals arriving at Wizard's Gate (a crag I bolted last summer that features great routes from 5.9 to 5.14), that while finding the next best 14+ would make me ecstatic, it's establishing good climbs that matters most, regardless of the grade. It may take me years of searching to find an awesomely wicked hard rock climb, but along the way, I'll happily clean up, bolt and establish routes all across the board if I believe someone else will enjoy them. That being said, Crosswinds has got a handful of radical 5.12s, and a very nice 13-. So grab your 70m and check it out here.

After a number of days wrapping up bolting at the Crosswinds, Paige and I headed to Rifle. This was my third trip, and I felt like I'd finally got a pretty good grasp on the technique and required skills to climb there. We arrived late Tuesday and warmed up immediately. I enlisted the beta of two of America's greatest female climbing athletes (and the only two women to ever climb 5.14 at Rifle) Emily Harrington and of course, Paige Claassen. They gave me great insight as I took my first burn up the ultra classic, 'Zulu' 14a. I was pleased to quickly unlock the first crux dynamic, and flash the second.. but I stumbled at the top- after 80 feet of hard climbing comes two distinct crux sections that feature unique movement and MANY different options. I took my time to try and create a feasible path to the anchors, but I discovered on my second effort (climbing to the upper crux and failing), that my beta was not good enough. I worked my way through the upper bit, figuring beta and exhausting myself. Before I could even rehearse the very top top, I was empty.. literally. DONE. Dirt, Dinner, Sleep.

the RMP in all it's summer glory

The following morning we awoke to rain, which did sock in some serious moisture, but also dropped temperatures 20 degrees and kept the sun from baking Zulu. I warmed up, stretched out, rehearsed my beta, and fired it! Very, very stoked to do such a mega classic, burly route so quickly. I seem to climb well in humidity (as long as it's cool), and I credit this climactic shift and the encouragement of my friends for my success.. Zulu truly is all it's cracked up to be. Floating after this victory, I decided to spring onto the nearby 'Bride of Frankenstein' 13c/d - an ugly, poorly manufactured route that everyone seemed to love. Mostly consistent and straight forward, thuggy movement takes you to a big roof- which I tried once on my first burn, but lowered to the ground before I reached the chains- assuming the roof was the crux and feeling beat up from Zulu.. after some rest I decided to 'oh what the hell' try it again, and to my surprise, I climbed through the bottom and found myself below the big horizontal roof near the anchors.. 'Crap! I don't know what to do!! whadoido whadoido?!' With no Rifle junkies nearby to spray me down, I took a few deep breaths and cranked into the roof, only to discover that the finish was actually quite tame. Stoked! It's not my favorite route (by a long shot) but, hey- the movement is fun I suppose. I finished off this killer day with a flash of 'Charleston Choss' 13b, next door, which honestly, felt about as hard as the Bride. Maybe it's cause I was WRECKED. It's been a long time since my whole body hurt from a day of climbing like this. The following morning I began, and ended, with some warm ups.. rest day deserved.

money siesta spot- check

In between all this jazz, I put together a little essay with a few pictures for Arcteryx on traveling and climbing- have a look here. Now I'm headed back to Estes to escape the heat and search for more stone.. Cheers!

The HAPS

BOOM! Colorado is going off right now.. Mt. Evans is hot like fire (or so the Bouldering types proclaim), ladies are crushing boulders, apparently everyone is boulder climbing everything up in RMNP, Jimmy Redo just cranked one of the first repeats on my alpine test-piece 13c, 'Cloak and Dagger', Ben Randolph finally put the 'Quickening' 13c to rest and Rifle just saw the most sending-est weekend ever (highlighted by Neely Quinn taking down 'The Path' 13c) thanks to some unseasonably low temps. Not to mention I've been terrorizing the canyons in my new Subaru WRX... SNAP! I'm taking this whirlwind Colorado flavor up to the International Climbers Festival in Lander, Wy... but before I head out, I'll give a wrap up of my happenings over the past week or so.

Wild Iris. Killer.

Paige and I went out to Rifle last week for my second ever visit. It was a bit buggy and warm, but we made due and got some stuff done. Although I do feel like I'm warming up to Rifle - the style, the burl, the crowds - I'm still remaining conservative, and allowing myself some time to acquire the skill-set that is uniquely Rifle before I get too ambitious. I opened up our 2.5 day stay there with some 5.14 effort on a 13b, due to some terribly wrong, self discovered beta on 'Euro Trash'- you can't help but feel like an idiot when someone burps from down below, 'hey dude, what about that JUG out right there?' Anyways, I put it to rest and started off day 2 on a better note with a route I'd been excited about long before I arrived.. the mighty 'Eighth Day' 13a. I'm very pleased to have managed an onsight on this 50 meter mega-route- it's brilliant! I also chucked a flash on the excellent and so-very-rifle 'Beer Run' 13a and finished the day on some killer Anti-Phil 5.12s while Paige fired the awesome, 'AntiPhil' 13b sans the chipped hold. The following morning I managed to onsight 'Cantina Boy' 13b, 'Blocky Horror' 12d/13a and 'Hand Me the Cantina Boy' 12d, before we bailed for home. I'm earning my way to 5.14 in Rifle, and stoked to feel more comfortable on easier terrain.. only downside to this trip was 'Pinch Fest' 12b- sorry people.. this route sucks!

static rope danglin at the Lighthouse.. new routes!!!

the view..

Estes Park has been my summer time hang for the past couple years ever since my family bought a little 100 year old cabin there- I love the place, and it offers the perfect escape from the heat of the summer. I've been bolting some new lines around an area I established last year, and hopefully within the next couple weeks 6 new additions, some of which hard, will be available for sendage. I also wandered out to the Monastery this past weekend to encourage Paige to try the incredible 'Grand Ol Opry' 14b/c a striking, very difficult line, which remains as one of my favorites. I shocked myself by managing a top-rope repeat, and Paige impressively made some truly awesome links and promising success on her first day of effort... sick. I cranked a lap on the 'Quickening' 13c as well before temps drove us away.

Now I'm heading to Wyoming to enjoy the company of friends and some bullet limestone pockets at the ICF. Come out and have a ball!!

and so it ends..

It's funny how, no matter how long you're away, like a tape-deck you simply press play and the same old home-town song starts right up again the moment you return. It's like you never left.. I mean come on, the Whole Foods renovation project even looks the EXACT same! I'll admit that something has definitely changed however, and it's making my underarms perspire at a shocking rate- it's freaking HOT. But before I warm heartily passed the 'Welcome to Colorful Colorado!' sign I did have a couple brilliant climbing days at Wyoming's (once) best kept secret- Tensleep.

Myself on 'Hellion' 13c way back in '08!! Andy Mann photo.

I say (once) cause unlike two years ago when I first visited, now you can expect to see others, and at that, you might not get a parking spot on the weekends. The place has certainly blown up, and for good reason- it's wicked. I wanted to take Paige straight to the goods, so we started at the beautiful Sector D'or et Bleu / Grasshopper wall, home to many of Tensleeps classic pocket cranking vertical 5.13s. I had managed a quick ascent of perhaps Tensleeps most coveted hard route, 'Sky Pilot' 13+, on my previous trip, but had yet to sample the other numerous routes on the wall. I began with 'Rosy Pussytoes' 13b, feeling confident from the ground, but then BOOM! immediate-gnarly-crux-bitch-slap. I needed a second try to put this bouldery thing down. Next I moved to 'Super Mama' 13a, on a striking section of bright orange limestone with a recently added direct start. I *barely* managed to onsight this thing, holy crap it's sandbag!! WHOA. Next door is one of the best on the wall- 'Blue Light Special' 13b, unfortunately that pretty blue color is the result of running water, and this route, albeit dry, was filthy. I took a burn just brushing and chalking holds, and dispatched 2nd try- sustained, brilliant crimping for days.. excellent climb. Paige onsighted a burly 12d called 'Esplanada' and I followed suit, finishing off a great day at Tensleep.

Moonlight above Tensleep Canyon

The next day we returned to check out 'Sugar Mama' 13c, a short-lived, but powerful climb to the left of 'Super Mama' that was also filthy. After cleaning it up a bit and chalking some grips, I fired it second try. We then wandered over to another wall I had briefly checked out previous- the Superratic, home to some world class limestone and some of the canyons hardest. My intention was to try one of Kevin Wilkinson's new routes next to the amazing 'Hellion' 13c, but I couldn't help myself but to drop my rope in front of the recently opened, 'He Biggum Fucked' 14a. This route is a total stunner- gorgeous. Long, thuggy movement between good pockets with poor feet characterize the climb, which ascends a golden bulge of near perfect stone. I sussed the sequential beta on my first try, and fell in the final crux on my second... feeling a bit worn down, I contemplated saving it for another day- but couldn't seem to keep my eyes off it, and went for a third burn- which thankfully resulted in success. Stoked! I loved this climb.. one of my favorites of the trip, and unfortunately it would be one of my last..

The following day we moseyed on down to Thermopolis for a dip in the hot springs and unexpectedly, a wicked hot rod show. The crowds were hilarious, we got our AMERICA on for sure. Shit, I wore my tank top and even drank a beer in the park- it was a thorough rest day. We were planning on spending a couple more days cragging, but the pockets finally caught up to me and on our next day on I felt some soreness arrive after a strenuous mono. Paige talked sense into me (once again) and convinced me to rest. In three tries she skillfully dispatched 'Hellion' 13c, and so we decided to call it good and bail- and so it ends... six and a half weeks later, we're back in the 'Rado.. after a killer road trip that took us through almost exclusively new (to us) terrain and across nearly 5,000 miles of highway. We had a BALL meeting dozens of awesome individuals, exploring the great North-West and getting some hard rock climbs done. Thanks again to everyone who helped us out, pointed us in the right direction, sprayed us down and put us up- this community kicks ass.

the daily routine back in Terrebonne..

ahhh. Smith. Awesome. Ben Moon Photo

The soreness in my hand dissolved in a day or two, and I've been climbing ever since we got back. We escaped to the cool temps of Estes Park almost immediately, where I've been spending my days high above the valley at Wizards Gate, repeating killer routes I established last year as well as adding some new ones (BOLTING! YES!). It always feels good to come home, but I'll admit I miss the road already- thankfully it won't be long until I'm off again!

Alpine sport climbing on 'Cloak & Dagger' 13c at Wizards Gate. Andy Mann Photo

Stay tuned at SPORTIVA LIVE as well for some bonus photos and stories from our recent trip.

The Homeland

America kicks ass. It's incredible how much geographic diversity this country exhibits. I've been fortunate to have traveled across oceans, too many times to count, and yet I'm still always impressed with my backyard. We've covered a lot of new ground in the last week, and the landscape, communities and stone continue to inspire.

Last week, after Paige put down 'Motley Crux' 14a, I felt a growing sense of urgency as a super hot front was moving into Spokane and we began to feel a bit antsy to carry on with our trip. After a restful day cruising Spokane and tirelessly rehearsing beta in my head, we returned to Deep Creek. It was a bit of a rainy day, but I knew it could potentially be our last 'good' day of weather for a while. 'Problem Child' (14c) was testing many of my weaknesses and with my number of attempts approaching double digits, it had already taken me more effort than any other 5.14 in well over a year. With moisture in the air, time pressure mounting and it's difficulties obvious, I was definitely nervous. It's no surprise that I had a horrible first burn (nerves KILL redpoints), and after being lowered I was not optimistic. Paige inspired by chucking a flash on the pumpy, fun, 'Masochist' 13b and pep talking me back down to reality. Next try, the Problem Child cracked and let me summit. It would be a lie to say it felt easy- it was every bit as hard as it felt days previous. I was stoked, relieved and pumped. On a high, I immediately turned my attention to the pump-fest, 'Motley Crux' 14a. I had given this route a half assed attempt a few days before, in a state of total exhaustion. Paige gave me running beta as I chugged for the anchors and managed to send. I cooled off with a repeat lap on 'Masochist', completing one of my best climbing days ever.

Problem Child. 14c

After one last mellow day in Spokane, packing up and saying goodbye to our friends and hosts Tana, Liberty and Marty we hit the road into Idaho- first stop would be the limestone ampitheathre high above the popular white water destination of Riggins. Not sure exactly what we expected, but the 'campsite' was literally a dead end shelf road- there's not even room to turn around. Thankfully we were the first and only car there. I had heard quite a few things about Riggins, primarily the rumors that it was super chipped, but that the climbing was fun. I expected a couple drilled pockets... but never have I ever seen such a display of manufactured routes- these climbs are literally 60-90% manufactured. Even the warm ups, the 5.11s, are manufactured.. You can't help but to be disgusted- however, we were there and if nothing else, it could be a learning experience. The movement, albeit obviously created by a taller person, was interesting at times, but it was hard to take your mind off the hopelessly chipped holds. I did 'Boo' 13b and fell heartbroken from clipping the chains on 'Yellow Man' 13+ when a hold broke. We were less than inspired.. so we packed up and bailed.

Paige, not SUPER psyched at Riggins

We took the long road to Sun Valley, camping off the road and enjoying some hot springs on the way. The next morning we explored the Sawtooths and hiked around beautiful Ketchum, Idaho to relax and celebrate Paige's Birthday. I had yet to see much of Idaho, but it only took a couple days to appreciate it- it's wild, big and diverse. Soon after we hooked up with our friends Beau Stuart and Steph Carter.. these guys BLEED Idaho. It's in their veins, and it was in their hearts to give us a proper tour for the next few days.

Nothin like a cool dip in the Sawtooths!

Just a little ways south of Sun Valley is a totally unique crag buried in the middle of no where. We parked the car on a random road with little sight of even hills in the vicinity. Beau tromped off through the sage, encouraging us to follow, although it appeared as though we were hiking into a featureless desert. Suddenly a hole emerges in the ground and below the surface shelves of basalt are eroded to create an incredibly steep, juggy and *sharp* climbing experience. The area is small so we sought to finish off the crag, which in the end was cut short by the pain our palms were subject to- it's sharp! We managed to flashed the fun, long pumpy 13a (name?) and sampled all the hard 12s there.

Lava Tubes. Steph Carter Photo.

That night we carried on Eastward towards a remote limestone area that Beau had been raving about for years. The Fins is a striking wall of towering limestone high above Craters of the Moon Nat. Park. The limestone here is bullet, and adorns the hilly landscape like ribbon on a christmas tree- there is TONS of stone up here. I was impressed. The larger wall at the developed area is massive, and definitely has space for some epic pitches. The angle is dead vert, but the climbing is generally difficult. I onsighted a nice 13a (name? sorry!) on the upper wall, sampled a number of the great 5.12 there and managed an onsight on a bomber 5.13 called 'Bushido' (i think...?). It was fun to spend some time with our friends and enjoy the unique solitude of this area- I'm quite inspired to return with a drill..

Paige climbs 5.12 at the Fins. Steph Carter Photo

5.13- at the remote and beautiful Fins. Steph Carter Photo

After a killer day at the Fins, we shot our way towards Jackson, Wy, where we crashed for a night with our good buddy Katrina, and quickly packed up for a rest day driving through Yellowstone on our way to Ten Sleep. I feel slightly more American for having seen Old Faithful erupt, although the degree to which Yellowstone is overrun with tourism probably removed that sliver of freedom- it's INSANE there! Literally thousands of people stood around watching the geyser. whoa.

We've made our way to Ten Sleep, finishing off our trip right- on killer limestone deep in the wilderness of lovely Wyoming. We can see the end now- it's only a half days drive away. The thoughts of heading back are sweet and sour- Boulder is not such a bad place to call home, but the inspiration and excitement that comes with being on the road is unparalleled.. I'd say I'm officially addicted. With only a handful of days left, we're ambitious to make 'em count- stay tuned!

BIG PROPS to Steph Carter for donating some killer images. Girl has got SKILLZ!

SpoCAN!

One of the most empowering things about road tripping is the sense of freedom that's present when all you need fits snug into a vehicle and you're always aware of your options. Your home, transportation, and storage unit are all one and the same- wanna move on?.. just turn the key and bounce. After quickly coming to terms with the aptly nick-named 'Squish' (a.k.a. Squamish, B.C.) and the depressing 10-day weather forecast, Paige and I made use of our freedom and pulled the plug. When it's raining in Squamish, it's RAINING. There is no hope of blue-sky hiding around the corner. There is basically no escape from the condensing, seeping, squishy nature of the granite boulders and cliffs- when it rains, you don't climb... you youtube, or facebook, or eat, or all of the above. Having just narrowly (but then again not entirely) escaped the rain during our week stay in Seattle, we were not motivated to try and wait it out.

Uma; looking laid back in Spokane

Before we did pack up and split, however, we did get a little taste of what Squamish has to offer. I got a long awaited tour of Arcteryx Headquarters in North Van. This new, very chic building is home to the great minds behind the leading innovation and attention to detail that puts Arcteryx at the helm of the outdoor industry. The building looks as cool as the products that come out of it and the employees were welcoming and stoked. Proud to be a member of the team!

They make maps for this place?

It was only suiting for us to drive directly from the Arcteryx headquarters to the base of the Chief. This is a huge chunk of stone, rising out of lush greenery to towering heights right near the water. Below this massive cliff lay hundreds of humongous, counter top granite boulders covered in glowing moss, exhibiting soggy chalk on edges and slopers above sometimes questionable landings. The Cacodemon boulder was the focus of my attention. This huge (biggest boulder ever?) detached block is home to the incredibly proud 'Dreamcatcher' 14d, a Chris Sharma climb that I had hoped to try a bit while in Squamish. This line is diverse, beautiful, begs to be climbed and, unfortunately, was soaking. It will have to wait for another visit I guess.

Thailand? Galapagos? SQUAMISH

On the semi-dry day we did have in Squamish, Scott and Sandra took us out to the wildly popular (basically only option on rainy days) crag, the Circus Wall- which features a nice array of 12s along with a large, super steep (and super seeping) visor called the Big Show- home to Sonnie's linkup, 'Superman' 14c among other B.C. test-pieces. It was great to get out, but this partially wet cliff hardly satisfied our desire for Squamish burl. The next morning we awoke to a downpour with no signs of slowing down. After some careful deliberation and frantic facebook chatting, we decided to bail and drove straight to Spokane, Washington. As great as it was to hang out with our friends Scott and Sandra, we were tired of waiting out the rain and ready for some dry stone- time to cash in our freedom tokens and hit the road.

We rolled right into the driveway of the long-time Eastern Washington legend and developer, Marty Bland. He and his wife Tana have generously put us up and showed us the gems that lay just outside of Spokane. Marty has been the driving force for Inland North West route development for many years, and you can tell by flipping through his authored guidebook on the area. Among a number of in-town crags, Deep Creek is perhaps the most impressive. This area is incredibly unique, like nothing we'd ever climbed. The water polished, overhanging blocky basalt induces a pump that is unparalleled- not even the Red can bulge forearms like Deep Creek in a matter of 50 feet. Although some loose rock does exist, and the crags are not the prettiest, this place rivals Little Si for the North-West's highest concentration of hard routes. The climbing is fun, athletic and often burly. First day out, Marty took us to the Main Wall, where we enjoyed our first super solid day of climbing in a what seemed like a while. I dispatched a flash through blocky edges and cool steep pockets on 'Quiver' 13c, an onsight on the thuggy 'Russian Arete' 13b, and a second-go summit on reachy and bouldery 'Left Bleeding' 13a. We left hopelessly pumped and super stoked. After a day of rain (what!? are you serious? more rain!?) touring downtown Spokane, we made our way to the Pit, a separate area at Deep Creek, to sample some of the hardest routes in Washington.

fighting the pump at Deep Creek

I had my eye on 'Problem Child' 14c, a Johnny Goicoechea route that had seen but two repeats. It took me a couple efforts just to suss clipping beta (lots of skipping bolts, long draws, etc.) and to create a reasonable sequence through the intensely thuggish mid-section. Once my beta was figured out, I invested a few more efforts making links on this beast, with my best performance yesterday- falling from the final move of the business, and 1 hanging twice with healthy overlap. All excuses aside, this climb is hard for me- it has already taken me more effort than any 5.14 I've done in the last year or more.. hopefully resting today will provide the necessary power to tackle the Child.

Motley Crux 14a

Paige deserves top praise for her efforts over the last few days. She has been working 'Motley Crux' 14a, a decade old test-piece that shares a common ending with Problem Child. On her 8th try yesterday, she exhibited her exceptional fitness with the first female ascent of this ultra-pumpy climb. Her rapid redpoint on such unique stone was super inspirational.. excellent work Paige!

wicked Andy Mann cover shot. yeah Kehl!

Lastly- Make sure to check out the hot-off-the-press Urban Climber Photo Annual, which is featuring a rad photo essay on Flatirons Renassiance that I authored an intro and photo captions for- always stoked on this area, and proud to have the chance to write a bit about it.