April is upon us! Nuts how the year passes on. It was nice to have something of a routine here in Vegas for the winter, but now I'm getting eager to get back in the road and get moving. I learned a lot from my experience projecting this spring on a route which I've been referring to as 'La Lune' project, in Arrow Canyon. But in response to some not favorable conditions and in the end a failed effort, I'm very motivated to get some things done in my last few weeks here in the Las Vegas area and really get my 2013 started. In my experience it's
really important to mix up the exhaustion, mentally taxing, filthy work of bolting / projecting with some good old fashion climbing for fun every now and then. I think that it's not only good for your climbing mentally and physically, but it's just downright important to clip chains every now and then.
That's my main focus for the meantime- clipping chains. Playing on some easier terrain, getting my stoke up and looking ahead to an action packed summer. At the same time, there's a few zones that demand at least a touch of attention, and it'll be cool to mix up my schedule with a little bolting and exploration.... all the Ely hype... it may just be true after all.... we'll see... life is good.
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| Mirsky and I representing the double send. Well done dude! |
After getting back from Ibex last week I turned right around and went into the hills - up to the Cathedral. It had been a while since I climbed in the cave there and I was stoked to check out a older rig called 'The Incredible Huck' 8c, which revolves around a pumpy intro to a couple great rests, and then a bouldery exit - long moves between pockets and mini-jugs high in the cave. Unfortunately a critical undercling pocket is still soaking, so it would have to wait. Instead I decided to link up the bottom of Huck with the impeccable finish on Golden. Joey did this connection last year, called 'Hucking for Gold' 8c. It does add a few tough moves between the routes but mainly it's a local's only link up. Regardless, it was good to revisit the crux on Golden and to get some fitness in. I put down a couple cool 13a's on the side as well, 'Free Bird' and 'Spring Loaded' both worth a run if you're out of classics. On a rushed day before heading to Vegas for the start of the Rendezvous I also managed to take down 'All Dressed Up With Nowhere to Go' 13d/14a (....) which required some creative thinking for sure. It's one of the more reachy climbs I've been on, but there is a method for shorter climbers that works, adding 6 moves - it's just quite a bit harder - bouldery and actually pretty cool! I'll take 14a, sure.
So then the Red Rock Rendezvous happened. It went super well. I had stoked groups, both fired up on climbing and the weather was great - which is huge considering the last few years at this event. My sponsors La Sportiva and Metolius were both there holding it down and with all the rad food, people, clinics and whatnot, I'd say it was a huge success for everyone involved. Not to mention that my homeboy Steve French aka Dirt Monkey put down an awesome set for the Saturday night dance party. Nice work everybody! Until next year...
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saw 3 baby diamondbacks!
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