back from the dead

After a number of back-to-back 6 hour training days, with a unrealistic amount of sleep in between, I arrived at work at 7am last friday with likely zero immune system remaining. Well, lucky for me there was a BRC route setting plague going around, and within a few hours I had fallen victim to it. My sickness took it's usual path directly to my sinuses, and within a day or two I was bed ridden with the worst illness I've suffered in years. A trip to the doctor, meds, an embarrassing amount of HULU watching (several times I received the 'Need a break? you've been watching for over 3 hours' message), nearly a full week of feverish nights and countless pots of tea later, I'm finally emerging from the dead.

As I was couch bound and unable to train my psych for this rapidly approaching return to Vegas has been overwhelming - no doubt it didn't help that it has been utterly frigid in Boulder nearly all week (highs in the single digits). I'm hopeful that I can make good use of the next week by getting some of my strength back and completely clearing this illness in the process.

Boulder melts.

Anyways... the slide-show last week went super well. We counted around 80-90 people, and just from raffle tickets we raised nearly $250 for the Access Fund. Andy Mann and I have done some killer shows in our day, but this was the largest crowd I had ever addressed alone - I've gotten quite a bit of great feedback, so I'm psyched! It looks like my next show will either be at the Red Rock Rendezvous on behalf of LaSportiva, or perhaps at the Lander Climbers Fest this upcoming summer (or both!).

poke

If you live in the front range you will find me doing an extended interview on radio 1190 tonight beginning at 9pm - tune in and check it out if you can, otherwise I'll post a link where it will be available to download later on.

Lastly, I must say, that while I know little to nothing about sports, I am a die hard Packers fan (especially when they make their way to the Super Bowl) and will be cheering like a true American this Sunday in the name of my birthplace.. Wisconsin. Psyched!!

Hope you all are staying healthy and psyched, cheers!

B.TWN

Straight from the crag last thursday, I drove late into the night to Salt Lake City. The ever welcoming Leif and Lindsay Gasch put me up once again and for the next couple days I enjoyed my biannual SLC visit, complete with Liberty Park runs, Sushi, dogs, trade-show happenings and enjoying the company of friends. I finally had a chance to check out Utah's answer to The Spot; The Front Bouldering Gym - which, as I expected, exhibited sound problems and was good for a ass kicking workout. I planned a longer stay and had convinced myself that I'd be able to enjoy some outdoor climbing in the area during this time, however, it quickly became clear that if I was to stick around I would be mostly gym bound... thus I pulled the cord and finished of the drive home after the weekend with a smile ear-to-ear knowing that the Green Bay Packers are headed to the Superbowl.

Zeke made some friends in SLC too

gettin my slide-show on at the Outdoor Retailer last week

Now I'm three days deep into a brutal self induced training schedule that will hopefully be just the right medicine for my ambitions back in the desert. Many of my peers insist that it is purely mental, but I've found that even just a few short weeks of training can make a big difference for my climbing. In that spirit, I'm making the best of my time home before moving out to Las Vegas for the remainder of the season - could not be more stoked!

Just before I left Nevada, I did an interview with my buddy Chris Weidner for his rock climbing column, Wicked Gravity, in the Daily Camera Newspaper - have a look at the interview here. Today I spent the entire morning preparing my slide-show for tomorrow night.. it's coming together really nicely and I'm stoked to share some images and stories from my year of climbing in 2010! I've got a healthy box of Arcteryx, Sportiva, BRC and BCA goodies to raffle out (all raffle benefits will be donated) and there will be free Avery beer while it lasts. See you there!

Dawn til Dusk

It's fascinating; the contrast that exists here in Las Vegas. Just minutes from the bright lights, zooming traffic and endless tarmac you'll turn a corner to find yourself lost in a desert landscape, complete with towering limestone walls or waves of beautiful sandstone. The lifestyle mirrors this same degree of contrast - you can be in complete solitude by day and then surrounded by thousands at night. Even on a bland, stay-at-home-movie-night, just being in Vegas is strangely invigorating.

another headlamp descent from Potosi...

I've had a pretty solid Vegas sampler thus far.. climbing long days at a few different cliffs, seeing the truly stunning Phantom of the Opera, watching a friend loose $40 in less than a minute and sharing many-a-beers over laughter and good food. I had no idea how much rock climbing exists within a couple hours of Sin City - the opportunity here is amazing - especially now, when most of the country is lacing up snow boots and wrapping up in scarfs, here we are.. hiking to the crag in shorts sans T-shirt. No wonder so many climbers have relocated here, even from such climbing havens as Boulder and Salt Lake City. In-fact, I've already planned my own extended stay - beginning next month I'll be living in Vegas until late spring.. Psyched!

Chris Weidner is... THE CZAR!

We've been making the best of an unusually wet Potosi, an area just outside Vegas with a reputation for burly routes (and manufactured holds). Neither of which I usually seek out, but the hang and temps at this scenic crag are to die for. Perfectly shaded climbs with a sunny belay and a breathtaking view of the expansive desert (not a highway or casino in sight). This cliff was made popular a little over ten years ago by the likes of Dan Meyers, a young Chris Lindner and Joe Brooks among others. The climbs are nauseatingly steep and gymnastic, featuring often huge moves between decent holds. The climbing has definitely challenged a weakness of mine - roof climbing, and super powerful movement - but it's been good for me.

Our first day out there I managed an awesome power endurance route called 'Mon Pote Assis' 14a that battles through a ~50 degree angle roof for a short 45 ft. I surprised myself by doing it on my third try, and immediately moved next door to check out 'Hold Your Fire' 14b. I onsighted the first half entitled 'Ray of Light' 13a on my way to have a look at the upper section, which is complete with a wild two finger pocket campus sequence and a burly finish without rest. A final, reachy, awkward cross move would prove to be a battle for me. I finished the day with a hard little 13a called 'Captain Crunch'.

Heather has all the betaz

Zeke confirms that the Solutions are indeed super comfortable

they call it the beach..

Clear Light Cave

Over the next couple days I found myself climbing to the finish on Hold Your Fire and struggling with the exiting move - it was super frustrating, but a good challenge.. I finally put it to rest yesterday. Then, after watching and belaying Chris and Heather a number of times on the classic, 'Power Windows' 13d, I thought it'd be good to have a proper flash go. I strapped up my knee pads, got the full spray down, and went for it. This short and cryptic climb begins with a powerful roof section and finishes with a thrutchy, lower angle top out. I made my way to the upper section feeling in control and prepared for what I heard was the redpoint crux. However despite the duct tape and a ear full of beta, I totally fumbled a double knee bar rest and finally decided to screw it and just keep climbing. Thankfully the top section suited my style and before long I was clipping chains. Psyched! I finished the day with a quick lap on 'The Natural' 12d. With the full moon overhead, we descended back towards the city lights, psyched on another great day out.

Today we went out to one of the most impressive walls at Red Rocks - the Gallery. I was super excited to have a go at some of this wall's ultra classic test-pieces, however the blazing hot sun and 70 degree temps were worrisome.. shockingly warm for January, but a sporadic breeze and a little convincing made it all okay. I began the day with the warm ups - 'Yaak Crack' 11d and 'Minstrel' 12b. First point of business was to try and onsight the 'Sissy Traverse' 13b, a stout traversing line that climbs the entire length of the wall. Nice little crimp cruxes are separated by rests and a hard boulder problem awaits you at the end - a super nice route. I then jumped on 'Nothing Shocking' 13a and the mega classic (albeit my least favorite on the wall) 'The Gift' 12d, followed by 'Where the Down Boys Go' 12d and 'Who Made Who' 12d. As the heat finally started catching up with me (and my skin), I onsighted 'The Glitch' 12c, finishing off the Gallery.. such a killer wall covered in great climbs - it rejuvenated my desire to climb at Red Rocks.

seriously... January?!?!

Tomorrow will be my last day before heading north to snowy Salt Lake for the Winter OR Trade Show, where I'll be doing a presentation in the Rock & Ice Climbing Zone on climbing in Kentucky on Friday January 21st at 2pm.. LaSportiva gear give-away!

I'm hanging in SLC for a few days before jetting back to Boulder for another slide-show presentation I'm doing at the Boulder Rock Club on January 26 - please come and check it out! I'll be showing a collection of slides from 2010, including a couple short videos and tons of stories. Entry is free for everyone and there will be Avery Beer available while it lasts plus some rad free gear! Hope to see you guys and gals out there!!

Vegas

After a heinous drive through seemingly countless hours of snow and ice, I finally arrived in the sunny Nevada desert. Our plans changed on the fly due to some unpredicted weather, and thus I wound up in Las Vegas. Cresting the final desert hill at night, and seeing the brilliant lights of this wild spot for the first time was some kind of invigorating. Complete with excessive gambling, an obvious lack of environmental sustainability and a good amount of grit, Vegas is everything I thought it might be - but strangely, there is an allure.. bright lights, a fast pace scene and of course the surrounding mountains have certainly made me rethink my position on Sin City.

Chris Weidner, Zeke and I are posted up at a good friend's house, the amazing Heather Robinson, within a 15 minute drive of Red Rock Canyon. I had my first taste of this well traveled area on Monday, in some unfortunately bitter temps, but it was fun none the less. We checked out some warm ups on the Sweet Pain wall and finished the day at the Tsunami. I must admit that, while the landscape is truly incredible, the short and crumbling routes did not excite me too much. Regardless, my favorites were 'S.O.S.' 13a, 'Man Overboard!' 12d and 'Aftershock' 12b.

chasin' rabbits all day

Zeke and I explored the maze of sandstone boulders and cliffs for hours on Tuesday, I took a few pictures and we found all kinds of interesting treasures buried in the amazing landscape.. it's a total playground out there. The lack of any sunshine and a frigid breeze drove me into the local gym, the Red Rock Climbing Center - a great little spot if you're ever in town and need an escape from the elements. Today I got out to support the team on a rest day and snap some photos of Heather attempting 'Nothing Shocking' 13a and Chris finishing 'Resin Rose'. The sun liberally poured onto the red stone, making sunglasses a necessity and smiling easy. As soon as the wind picks up however, you're brutally reminded that it is indeed, January.

Chris sends the gnarly 11+ offwidth, 'Resin Rose' ... hilarious video here.

Heather Robinson.. one move away from 'Nothing Shocking' 13a

At night, a good sized crew of Vegas folk are always meeting up somewhere and having a drink - the scene here is very inviting, and the locals are rad. Climbing by day, a night life unrivaled and a solid community makes it easy to be psyched in Vegas. In the next couple days we plan to check out Mt Potosi, an area I know very little about, but the locals seem to love. One of my long time heros, Bill Ramsey will be joining us and hopefully spraying me down with betas.

I'm so stoked to out and about.. new areas, great new people and fresh landscape. It's a great way to begin the year and I'm hopeful to keep it this way!

2011 & 24KARATS

I've been training overtime since I got back from the Midwest in preparation for 2011, and thankfully the 'no rest for the wicked' attitude has seemingly paid off.. I'm feeling prepared to welcome in this amazing new year, get on the road and take down some rock climbs!

party bus to Denver with an all-star crew - great New Years Eve

I've been leveling out my (lack of) power with some great bouldering sessions at the Spot here in Boulder, which truly is one of the nation's very best indoor bouldering facilities. This, coupled with tireless rope sessions at the BRC and trying my best to keep the dog tired has been exhausting.

... a little different than Kentucky..

I'll be setting for the final installation of the Boulder Rock Club's BCS rope comp tomorrow before packing up and heading west this weekend. Some adverse weather has shifted my plans, but I'm confident that some dry stone and good times await. Teaming up with the unstoppable Chris Weidner and of course, Zeke the power puppy, will certainly lead to some trouble making. Stay tuned!

Lastly, this fall I opened a new route titled, 'Twenty Four Karats' at the incredible Gold Coast, Red River Gorge. This is unquestionably one of my favorite routes that I've ever done, worthy of every star I could ever award. I thoroughly enjoyed climbing this route and am stoked to announce the arrival of the video, presented by ARCTERYX - put together by one of the hardest working dudes in the industry, Keith Ladzinski.

holidaze

When I left for the Midwest I was feeling a surge of motivation as I began planning for the coming year and my training was just picking up after a long week off from climbing. I guess I just assumed that spending 8 days in middle America would not affect my psych... but damn, it is work to stay active and engaged in training during the holidays. Especially when you're out of your element (in the Nation's fattest state to boot). In between delicious meals and enjoying family I did sneak away to check out some of the Midwest's indoor climbing facilities and even as fun as it was, I decided in the end that rest would likely benefit me more than trying to turn this holiday vacation into something it wasn't.

.....being indoors.... a lot.

Of course, as expected, if you take something away you'll wind up wanting it that much more.. and I could not wait to get home and beat myself up at the Boulder Rock Club. Especially now that I've made plans to check out the climbing around lovely Las Vegas in January. I've never been to this zone that I've heard so much about. I'm not much of a gambler either, but the bright lights and dazzling energy of Sin City definitely intrigues me. Now I just need to do some catch up training to compensate for all those cookies, Culvers and deep fried ice cream (disclaimer: I never ate Culvers or deep fried ice cream) and I'll be psyched and on the road again!

Big thanks to the awesome crowd at Adventure Rock in Pewaukee, Wisconsin for always showing us a good time. Also, if you're ever in the area, definitely check out Boulders in Madison for some of the coolest real rock textured holds I've ever grabbed. I'd also like to simply take a moment to appreciate how psyched everyone is out there.. the winters are BRUTAL, there's hardly any rock within a day trip, and good gyms are few and far between. Yet, the joyous Midwesterner remains psyched and ambitious, patiently waiting for that distant week of vacation spent (inevitably) in the Red with a long and arduously researched tick-list in hand. Meanwhile, a lazy Front Ranger plays Call of Duty on a 50 degree day in January, complaining that 'Eldo is all just vertical and the Flatirons is too far to hike'... I salute you Midwesterner!

Hope you all had a great holiday..

midwest bound

It's been a while since I was around the U.S. for the holiday season, and while certain opportunities to travel will always trump sticking around for the gnarly weather, I must say I do have a soft spot for xmas lights, cookies, visiting with family and eggnog. On the food front, I'll certainly be getting my fill over the next week as I travel to the Mid-West to see my extended family. That's right, I'm a Wisconsin boy, and (in an unshameful way) proud of it!

holidays are delicious

Aside from gifts, good food and enjoyable company, I've also been bouldering a little more - in an attempt to attack my (shameful) weakness. I've bouldered here and there over the past couple years, but never have I taken it seriously. I've known for some time now that to achieve next level in my route climbing abilities, I need to be more capable of doing isolated and very difficult movement. I rarely fail from pump any more, but single moves definitely shut me down. My ability on boulders is embarrassingly poor in comparison to my abilities on routes. I'm really going to work at it, in the hopes that an improved foundation of power and strength will be the missing link to my next route climbing goals... but damn is it humbling!!

The success and positive feedback regarding the Pure Imagination video has been super inspiring - I know that Andy worked hard to make this little video near-perfect, and thus I'm stoked to see such a great reaction from the community. We're overwhelmed with ideas and psyched to create more! The Twenty Four Karats video that I shot with the other half of Three Strings Media, Keith Ladzinski, is set to release any time now.

at the BRC, we always set routes in hot pants

If you need a last minute gift idea, or the holiday blues have got you fiending for a good laugh - take a minute and check out the Men of Route Setting Calendar that LT11, Baskit and a slew of fantastic route setters put together. It's nothing short of hilarious, and for $3 you can support the AccessFund and buy the gift of all gifts for your girlfriend.. HILARIOUS!

Pure Imagination Video

Andy Mann and I have been working together for quite some time now. We've become great friends as well as partners in the industry. Andy came to the Red last month to do a little climbing and to make a short film documenting my new route, 'Pure Imagination'. We put in some serious work on this thing.. variable conditions (frigidly cold, then too much sun, etc.) and some logistical problems required three independent film sessions trying to capture this climb (sorry Paige!), but thanks to the wizardry of Andy Mann, this video turned out very, very cool. I think it illustrates the climb and the wall really nicely. So.. proudly presented by Arc'Teryx here it is!!!!

Pure Imagination from ARC'TERYX on Vimeo.

past and plans

I feel that it is important every now and then, in any pursuit, to occasionally halt your day to day grind, take a moment to reflect on your recent past - both successes and failures, rest and start fresh. This is precisely what December has been for me thus far. The last year has proved to be a breakthrough year for me in many respects.. but like anyone, I also suffered various defeats. It feels both healthy and righteous to take a minute and rejoice in those wins and also examine my losses in climbing of course, but also in general. Thinking ahead, I find myself tending towards larger and larger goals and as I create said goals, I become immediately motivated. For me, planning has always been nearly as fun as execution and as I plan for the coming year, I must say.. I am unbelievably stoked! There's much work to be done!!!!!!

In the spirit of reflection.. I flipped through the old 2010 photo library and dug up some images to share from this past year. Enjoy!

quickdraws in the pipedream

rmnp

name this boulder problem and I'll buy you a 6-pack (Andy Mann, you only get a 40 oz.)

Fall in Boulder

midnight in the San Rafael Swell

Wild Iris, Wyoming.

gourmet road tripping

we found Zeke on the highway in Kentucky, on Thanksgiving Day. After much deliberation, he managed to nab a seat in the Subaru on the way home. He lives in Colorado now and as it turns out, he is an excellent running partner

The Kitchen at Makers Mark

New Castle.. waiting out the sun..

'There's a KNEEBAR!'

Eldo

Scamp. Leif approves.

Me VS Rest

My relationship with resting has been something of a battle over the years. In the first few years of my climbing I rarely rested, convinced that too much resting would result in a loss or stagnation of progress. After a lifetime of various athletics, I was no stranger to day after day abuse, and the rate at which I was improving kept me coming back for more. For the first three years of my life as a climber I would regularly climb 6 days a week, and aside from one three week break (while traveling), I never rested more than 3-4 successive days. Even on rest days I would run 6 miles, or mountain bike 15, or do yoga, or play frisbee, or hike a mountain, etc. I could probably count the number of days I did nothing active, during those three years, on one hand.

It was not until about three years ago, shortly after a major milestone in my climbing (doing my first 5.14, 'Sarchasm' 14a) that I began to better recognize my body's growing need for recovery and chill out a bit. I trained at a new level to send Sarchasm - aware that it's elevation (at over 12,000ft) and it's approach (2.5 hours, 3k vertical) would require mega aerobic fitness. I was so addicted that even the day I finally sent, I rewarded myself with a hour long bike ride. The following year however, I would come face to face with some different challenges. My next projects would also become major milestones, but would require a different type of strength. As I began training power, I quickly recognized a greater need for rest (i.e. on day 4 I would be essentially incapable of climbing). I compensated by climbing fewer days per week, but I continued to train aerobically on my 'rest days'. If you've ever seen a panting cyclist, sitting up and rehearsing beta while changing lanes in traffic, it was probably me.

probably a 'rest day'. circa 2005

rest day. circa 2010

For quite a while I continued training on 'rest days', and I also noticed very little improvement in my climbing. I finally tried out taking a sit-on-your-ass-do-nothing rest day and was shocked by it's effectiveness. Who would have thought... right?

Over the last two years or so, I've finally come to terms with resting (almost). My goals have grown exponentially, and my training has changed accordingly. Through much trial and error, I finally discovered that during periods of intense training or projecting, I see the most gains and greatest performance when I increase the potency of both my workouts/climbing days and my rest days. Nowadays, on rest days, I freakin REST.. and it feels GLORIOUS. Even so, in the last three years I've had a whopping 5 successive rest days, once, and it was not voluntary.

Until now.. This time it's voluntary, and much appreciated. While I could never expect to succeed at, well.. basically anything, if I were to train and (not) rest like I did five years ago, I feel strongly that it was an important time in my development. Now, I recognize the value of rest and I am in tune with my body's demands, which have changed dramatically.

Today marks day 6 of my almighty 2010 week-o-rest. This break has been just as valuable mentally as it has physically.. and more than anything, I'm excited to see how I feel when I finally start climbing again. Will the dreaded days of rest prove detrimental and result in extreme performance loss? or will a couple days off be the missing ingredient to supreme crushing abilities? THE SUSPENSE IS KILLING ME!

OH, and one more important thing that rest is good for; NOT climbing. As much as I love the pursuit, it's important to be a human every once and a while and spend your time and energy elsewhere.. if nothing else, it will likely boost your motivation.