Thursday, September 10


Some climbing days are simply brilliant. Everybody has their own definition of brilliant, but here is mine: Sun, clouds, solitude, a stout hike, good friends, remote setting, inspiring rock climbs. I've been lucky to have had a number of such days recently, but yesterday was simply over the top radical. I've been quoted stating that my favorite crag I have ever been to is the Monastery near Estes Park and days like yesterday reinforce this heart felt belief. Alone all day, under vibrant sunshine, my buddy Ben Randolph and I cranked at this world-class cliff. Despite spending many days projecting all the cliff's best routes over the years, I still love to return and enjoy the setting and climbs here. Yesterday I managed a repeat of the truly amazing 'Third Millennium' 13d (my first of the grade a few years back) sticking to the original beta moving directly through the 3rd to 4th bolt up a ladder of powerful, crimp gastons- unbelievably good rock climbing. I also did a couple repeats on 'The Quickening' 13c (my first ever 5.13) and also on possibly the states best 12d 'Psychotomic'. Even the brutal uphill slog at the end of the day could not wipe the smile off my face.
Tomorrow morning I'm off to catch a tan in Wyoming and get my pocket cranking fix- definitely another one of my favorite spots. I'll be seeing a number of you at the world premier of the Reel Rock Film Tour tonight I imagine! cheers.

photo: Keith Ladzinski shot me on the day I first did 'Third Millennium'- a serious breakthrough in my climbing life at the time and as you can tell by the photo.. a brilliant day of climbing as well.