Moonshinin'

Ah... the beloved rest day. Kentucky rest days are straight country livin' and, in my opinion, damn satisfying. Last Wednesday I indulged in a thoroughly Kentucky rest day with a few simple goals: shoot guns, buy used furniture, kick back, drink some beer. I can proudly say that I succeeded on all accounts, thanks in large part to the ever-supportive and heavily armed local, Kentucky Joe.

I've had some other successes since my last rest day as well. Last Thursday I headed out for one last day of full-on media with the Arcteryx crew to the Bob Marley Crag. The day was generally humbling, which began with me failing on a 'warm up' called 'Dogleg' 12a. Being 5 foot 5 and sending this route as a warm up do not seem to mix well - anyone who knows this route knows what I'm talking about (although I've heard Mike Doyle, also small, managed an ascent- very proud!!). With my tail between my legs, I wandered around the corner to the next objective, '50 Words for Pump' 14c. My first attempt was in full sun, and was characterized by repeated falls from the crux, being extremely pumped, splitting my finger, and desperately grabbing non-holds as I barely managed to hang my draws on this beast of a route. My next go was better, and I was able to get through the crux to the rest above, but a few bolts below the top I was pumped to a level unimaginable and still unsure of my sequence.. I'm Off!! Big falls on this ridiculously steep and long route.. Third and final burn of the day I punted all over, over-gripped and tired, I lowered to the dirt a bit uncertain but inspired.

While 'Lucifer' was almost perfectly my style, '50 Words' could be the antithesis- steep, thuggish, slopers, nothing bites (everything requires a proper squeeze). Back at the house, Kentucky Joe mentioned that he thought there were some trick rests on the route, including a possible knee-bar. Hmm.. after some additional research I had a few fresh ideas. Friday it was dumping rain and the air was saturated, but the temps were generally cool. We found the Bob Marley to be mostly dry and totally climbable - stoked. First burn I fell from the crux, but it thankfully gave me an opportunity to suss out key resting beta, including a knee bar to clip an otherwise strenuous bolt up high. The rain made for an empty crag and pleasant background noise of the soft rain drops on the changing leaves. Second go of the day I climbed through the crux via the try hard technique and took my time recovering at the first rest. With my beta now mostly sussed I fought through the steepening mid-section to the knee-bar and final clip in the business. Exiting the knee-bar felt hard, but at this point I was way too stoked to allow a fall. The finish was moist, but thankfully very easy to the top (I have a stupid habit of not venturing all the way to the chains while working a route, leaving a sometimes adventurous finish on the red-point). Highly stoked, I slapped the chains and then took a victory whip, realizing the fault of my actions once on the ground, 'Shit dude! those are my draws up there..'. See what happens when you get too excited? I had to dog my way up the route again and then cleaning off my draws was quite possibly more difficult than the actual climb. It was not enough to kill my stoked though.. very excited on the send.

Saturday the rain was still hanging around but the day looked more promising. My boy Ben Randolph had gotten into town on Thursday night and the two of us made a plan to check out the privately owned Muir Valley. After some enjoyable albeit short warm ups at the Indy Wall we headed over the Sanctuary. This amazing crag is stacked with quality, and unfortunately on Saturday it was also packed with humanity (we counted 23 people). I was inspired to sample the whole crag and began with an incredible, technical face climb called 'Cherry Red' 14a that features a ladder of sharp crimps to a stout boulder problem through pockets and dimples. This route was terribly dirty, but after some cleaning it was back to awesome. I sent third go. I carried on down the line and was able to onsight the incredible steep jug ladder, 'Peace Frog' 12d, the sustained and awesome 'Prometheus Unbound' 13a, the ultra classic and varied 'Jesus Wept' 12d and the reachy and aesthetic 'Triple Sec' 13a. What an amazing crag!! Everything was good- not too many places you can say this for. Ben had a ball too, and is quickly getting into Red River shape to crush, almost accidentally sending 'Peace Frog' at the end of the day.

Now we are chillin' at the house. I'm taking pulls straight from the peanut butter jar and Ben is reading National Geographic, the others are cranking cereal and we are all bullshitting.. rest day.. We are going to head into town soon and re-up our grocery situation, and who knows maybe cook up some moonshine or something.. keeping it real. I've had an amazing week out here climbing and to think that I've got another week and then some is super motivating. The Red is everything they say it is, ya'll Kentucky folk are lucky.

Photos of '50 Words for Pump' courtesy of Brian Goldstone / ARCTERYX

Kentucky Stoked

Wanna get really motivated? Try driving 18.5 hours, alone, across the great plains of America in a single effort. After an endlessly flat horizon and miles of lethally dull landscape, motivation to climb, or move, or really do anything but sit and stare will be oozing from your pores. Early on Sunday morning, when I awoke at a freezing Missouri rest stop in the back of my packed Subaru, I could smell my own special scent of motivation (or was that just the too many long hours in a car funk?). Regardless, I was so stoked that I drove directly to the crag on a hunch that I could meet up with a few friends and get some pitches in- something.. anything.. I would have paid $10 a catch at this point- that is motivation.

Maybe it was this overwhelming level of excitement, or the great people I've recently met, or perhaps it's these ridiculously inspiring cliffs that are around every turn, but I can full-heartedly say that the Red River Gorge is the shit.

The night I arrived I accidentally met up with photographer Andrew Burr as we were both somehow lost trying to find the Purgatory. I thankfully had the excuse of having just come off a desperately boring car ride. Two heads truly are better than one though, and as a team we were able to find the (clearly) marked path to this amazing wall. BOOM! Red River Gorge at its finest and I was completely blown away by this beautiful, massive cliff. Motivation still oozing, I jumped right on an incredible warm up and then moved my rope beneath the wicked 'Lucifer' 5.14c. After a good re-con burn I was completely stoked out of my mind on the movement, aesthetics and difficulty of this beast. Lucifer is a stunner, and I was fully inspired. On my second effort I was able to grit my teeth and manage a one-hang. Stoked. Very Stoked. And tired.

Back to the house to meet up with the crew and get a good night sleep. The following day Lauren Lee and I had an epic morning of bush-whacking in the efforts to find some trad climbs before we gave up and headed over to the Purgatory. I was extremely excited to try Lucifer again, to the extent that it surely must have annoyed Lauren. Thankfully I got my chance, although I could only manage a one hang on it for my third and fourth burns.. On my final effort of the day I was hoping to suss moves and refine beta, but before I knew it I had fired the bouldery crux and somehow was feeling refreshed at the crappy rest immediately after. I knew that I had a chance to finish it, but I was also aware of A) how tired I was at this point in the day and B) how much difficulty was between me and the top. I grit my teeth, licked the bag, dug deep, tried hard, or whatever other ways you wanna say it but after 20 more feet of hard bouldering in shallow pockets and edges and another 50 feet of puke-in-your-mouth-pumpy jugs later I was clipping chains. Scott Milton and Brian Goldstone of Arcteryx got there just in time to catch my ascent on both film and with stills (see attached photos complements of Brian and Arcteryx). Climbing such an amazing route is a hell of a way to kick off a great trip and I could not be more stoked.. until the next day of course.

Having never been to the Red before, looking through the guidebook causes almost too much excitement to handle. It's easy to get lost in your stoke and end up going crazy with planning. Lucky for us the Arcteryx film and photo crew was around to help make decisions for us. Gold Coast it was, no problem, I'm happy, let's go. Yet another ridiculous wall, covered in difficulty and stunningly beautiful. After warming up on a couple amazing traditional cracks Lauren and I headed to the burl. I got the beta run down on 'God's Own Stone' 14a, and was able to succeed at a flash. I followed up with an on-sight on the incredible 'Golden Boy' 13b (one of the best of the grade I've ever been on) and also 'Black Gold' 13c. To cap off this fantastic day I did a less-travelled route called 'True Love' 13d on my second attempt- a great Dave Hume route albeit not quite in the same star category as the others I thought.. A great day out for sure with perfect weather and good people all around - the Gold Coast is legit!

I felt I'd earned a rest day and here I am.. resting.. Kentucky style! Shooting guns in the morning and buying used furniture in the afternoon. Brilliant. I'll update on the next rest day- hope everyone in the northern hemisphere is loving the fall.. it's time to get out and send your proj!!

photos: Brian Goldstone- Lucifer, Golden Boy and Black Gold..

The OTHER Creek

Moab locals have long been associated with dramatic sandbagging. Anyone who has ever stopped at the Big Bend boulders for an afternoon has surely tasted an ounce or two of rejection on what the locals warm heartedly call 'V1'. I can remember being sandbagged even as a mountain biker in Moab.. 'oh, yeah, you can for sure ride to that trail head..'

With such a stigma about them, I entered my first weekend to Mill Creek with little expectation, and much excitement. Pictures of this hidden sandstone gem have adorned my walls since long before I ever thought I might be able to tackle any of the test-piece routes there. I've drooled over Boone Speed photos of Tommy climbing on 'Prosthetics' too many times to count. Could such a beautiful area truly exist?

Seeing is believing. And after a long drive from Boulder, narrowly escaping the incoming storm, we arrived just as the sun was setting. Homegirl Heidi (Wirtz) guided us down a seemingly hidden trail to the rim of a canyon where a installed metal via-ferrata style ladder lead us to the canyon floor and below the amazing Wicked Crag. Far too stoked to call it a night, Paige Claassen and I busted out headlamps and began our Mill Creek journey the only way we should have expected - sandbagged. 5.10+ is what they call 'Ferns'. Maybe it was the chilly temps, the pitch black or the 7 hours in the car (most likely it was the local hard men and women) but this felt bonafide 12a to us... hmm.. Next logical step? Try harder. 'Technochrist' (12c) is a wicked, precision crimping, technical masterpiece that packs an extra punch when done under headlamp- Incredible climbing. Enough said. I finished the evening with an unbelievably strenuous (barely) on-sight of 'Flaming Groovy' (12c), which reminded me of some kind of hell- upside down wide corner body stuffing, holy-crap-I-just-moved-one-inch kind of climb. I found myself whispering 'I don't know what to do' a number of times. Paige was laughing hysterically.

Under better lighting conditions and with renewed excitement we returned the next day. Again, I found myself shocked with the beauty of this place. I was drawn to a notoriously sandbagged route, that had thwarted the efforts of many a hard men and women over the years called 'The Bleeding'. Rated 14a, it has been called potential 14b or even c by the few that have managed a repeat. Honestly, I was hesitant to try it, thinking that I would be better off searching for sure success in the land of the sandbagged. Paige, however, was not having it- she wouldn't let me not try hard, and eventually I agreed. On my sample burn I was impressed to say the least. To be more accurate I immediately considered this to be one of the better 5.14's I had ever climbed on. I also managed to pull through all the moves first or second try. The crux involves interesting body positions to negotiate a few horrible crimps, a couple shallow pockets and then a very hard exit move out of a left hand undercling to an accurate two finger pocket stab. It is incredible. I shocked myself by falling from the final move on my second attempt and really shocked myself by redpointing on my third attempt. I tried hard, It felt awesome, I was stoked. I right away carried my excitement next door to flash the crag classic 'Tikki Man' 13c. Paige one-hung the crap out of 'Tikki Man', primed for a send the following day.

With a few hours of light left, I decided to turn my attention to the other outstanding inspiration- 'Prosthetics' 13d (sandbag). All that drooling had not been for nothing. Now I was standing in front of one of the most beautiful walls I had ever seen, thinking aloud- I must try this thing. Just as I expected, it climbed as good as it looked. Hanging draws on this route is a freaking taxing event given that the climb has a 25 foot downward traverse. After having a good sample run and thankfully getting giant slings and draws hanging, I was EXHAUSTED. Lights out, warm down, time for the camp fire and red wine.

Chilly morning temps the following day inspired a hurried camp exit and a jump start on our last day at Mill Creek. After watching Paige crush 'Tikki Man' I was all fired up to take a crack at 'Prosthetics'. The crux on this route is managing the burl through the first two thirds of the climb (including a mostly campusing traverse) to get to a long, powerful lock-off before tackling an amazing black wall of crimps. I could feel on the traverse that I was perhaps on my last feasible attempt (read: getting tired), which was enough to kick start my try hard and help me get through the crux lock-off to finish the third ascent of this other-worldly rock climb. So Stoked. I wrapped up the killer weekend with an on-sight of the wild and crazy 'Bow Spirit' 13a and some warm downs. Content in the back of the Honda Element with Paige, fully crashed out, we cruised back to the front range to find freezing temps and patches of snow..

Thanks to all the Moab locals for keeping the grades stiff as hell and developing such an incredible area. Lisa Hathaway filled us in on details whenever needed and was happy to offer long sling advice (crucial Lisa! thanks). I'll be buzzing from last weekend for a while, or at least until I take off for Kentucky this Saturday...

In the meantime! BCS COMP SERIES!!!! FIRST INSTALLMENT THIS FRIDAY!! do it. it's FUN.

And check out this ridiculous electronic genius (S.Q.L.) I have just stumbled upon if you have a moment..

Cheers!

photos: rock and lichen at ML CRK, Paige stretches out in front of 'Tikki Man' with 'The Bleeding' in the background. photo from below the amazing 'Prosthetics'

Wintery Mix

I could have sworn we were just moving into fall when I checked the 5 day forecast to see the words 'Wintery Mix' adorning this weekends weather prediction. Hmmm. After some hurried typing and logically thought out cross-weather-website-referencing I realized that something of a perfect storm is CRUSHING the front range over the next few days. Only one answer to this riddle and it's not climbing inside- I'm OUT!!! Given the size of this beastly storm system Paige and I are heading WAY over the divide and I'm finally going to have the chance to climb at an area that has fascinated me for a long time- Mill Creek. VERY excited to check this spot out, although my time there will be kind of short.

Friday morning is feeling extra welcome after a long week of varied work (and varied success). Last Monday I helped out a good friend of mine by stepping into all five of her middle and high classes at the Bruce Randolph school in Denver and giving a 45min shpeel on rock climbing, showing some photos and letting the kids check out some hardware. They were STOKED to say the least, and of all 160 kids I spoke to over the course of the day, I can only hope that a couple check out rock climbing on a weekend or after school. This experience definitely fostered a new appreciation for the pace and hustle of a school teacher- that's endurance.

Tuesday I had a chance to get back up to the Industrial Wall with Paige. Temps were definitely a bit warm and the sun was crankin, but we were stoked up and both FIRED our routes. I am very excited to have finished up 'Terminal Velocity', which was yet another difficult Industrial Wall reach problem that I found unique and interesting short person beta for. I was forced to add a few desperate moves to the crux sequence, but what it really came down to was a very hard, ultra low-percentage (average about 50% off the hang) dynamic reach that required pulling with a depressingly small footer and accurately stabbing a three finger dish. The rest of the route offered a really nice pump on super enjoyable corners and edges, but the route was always this one move for me. I definitely hesitate to say this sans knee-bar, short person beta is 14b, but I will admit it took me more efforts than any other 14a I've ever done, save my first (Sarchasm). Shortly there after Paige took a cleveland steamer on T.G.V. (13c), making it her second 13c in a week, and I finished the day with the last worthy route at the wall I had yet to red-point, an enjoyable little boulder-route called 'Tunnel Vision' 13b. Wicked day. We even had time to check out and support a special GORE-TEX / ARCTERYX / BLACK DIAMOND event in Denver - the Proforum. Free food, good friends and a fancy electronically controlled bidet- wicked night.

Wednesday had been hanging over my head for a while, given that Andy Mann and I had planned our first big slide-show at the Boulder Rock Club titled 'Colorado Burl' - sponsored by Arcteryx, LaSportiva, Avery and the BRC. We entered the show with some minimal stress, but in the end had a hell of a good time and were super stoked on the success of the night. We definitely pushed the maximum capacity of the yoga room and got a bunch of laughs out of the seemingly pleased crowd. It was a ball, and I wanna thank all those who made it out to support us and check out some killer front range images!

I'll be around Boulder for a couple days next week and also will be setting some ridiculous plastic climbs next friday (16th) for the first edition of the BRC's BCS comp series. Makes sure to check it out!! then I'm off to Kentucky...

photos: (Justin Roth) Thanks for coming out! never been good at baseball but check out my swag tossing arm!!

Colorado Burl

My long awaited, first ever trip to the Red River Gorge has finally come within sight. With a longer trip to such an awesome spot on the near horizon, I've been inspired to try to push a breakthrough and give some effort to up my game before I head out there. Breaking from my short-trip routine of not attempting anything too involved for a couple tries, I am thinking about focusing my energy and time on fewer, harder routes while in the Red. In an effort to train up and also remain outside I've spent some time up at the Industrial Wall and the Monastery. I put in some effort on a really, really cool route at the Industrial Wall (Terminal Velocity 14a) that was rumored to be especially hard for the shorter climber- and those rumors had kept me off of it until I had a chance to check it out last week. I found some very low-percentage, albeit super interesting and exciting beta through the crux, sans the typical knee-bar, that seems like it may work. Of course the Monastery always offers a good pump, and I had a blast up there this past weekend with a solid group of friends. I happily ran a number of repeats in the semi-freezing temps while others crushed as well, most notably the ever-impressive Paige Claassen firing 'The Quickening' 13c in a day- just sickening.

Of the utmost importance is the following spray about Andy Mann and I's team slide-show at the Boulder Rock Club 8pm this Wednesday. Titled 'Colorado Burl', it will showcase some of the sickest trad, sport and boulder climbing routes the front range has to offer. Expect to be entertained to the maximum, drink some free beer (Avery no doubt) and maybe even walk away with some Arcteryx, Sportiva or Boulder Rock Club swag. Sounds like a ball right?! oh yeah, and it's FREE, although there will be a donation jar (WINK, WINK). Be there!!

I am hoping to get away next weekend but the weather is not looking too promising around here. Within 6 hours of Boulder- In search of a brilliant pump and some enjoyable temps- any suggestions? yeah.. I'm thinking wyoming...

Don't forget to get your plastic training on for the first of the Boulder Climbing Series competitions coming up just around the corner (Oct 16th). This will unfortunately be the one and only of the series that I will be able to set for- so if you're fiendin' for some challenging JSTAR routes you can't miss it!

Photo: Paige gettin' down to business while B-Real and I are looking G-ed up from the feet up at the Monastery, straight freezing!

ISSUE#33

To say I am 'stoked' would be a vastly inadequate statement. Go and check this issue out pronto!! Definitely one of UC's best (not just saying that) including tons of content from Andy Mann and I's road trip (my first authored article for a mag!), wicked photos, and cool features all around. The cover shot is one of my favorites from the trip- a completely authentic captured image of myself giving top effort to onsight 'Pornstar' 13d, only to fall on the final move. Support me and support UC - grab a copy!

Big Apple

I took a big juicy bite out of the big apple this past weekend and it has got me feeling a little hung over. As I've mentioned before, this city has a distinct feeling unlike any place I've ever been. A hustling intensity saturates nearly every part of your day, which many come to enjoy and even thrive on. For myself, this is a slow-soul-drainer. Naturally, when visiting old friends your days and nights are always packed, but being in the city I found myself with an underlying, subtle running stress level at all times. Riding a bike through Brooklyn- intense, driving through Manhattan- intense, walking through Times Square- intense, finding your favorite muffin at Whole Foods- intense, drinking and dancing and drinking- intense, and so on. A little stress is definitely fuel to some folks, and I honor you all with great awe. For me, I thrive on quiet when I sleep, riding my bike down empty roads and seeing a natural landscape over my shoulder.. but don't get me wrong, I had a BALL in the big apple. Everyone can use a couple long ass nights every once and a while, and there is no better place to do it than in Gotham City.

My long time best buddies took great care of me, and showed me an excellent time as to be expected. These dudes are not just like my family, they are my family. When we all get in the same room together it is obvious that we have created a relationship over the years that is beyond friendship, at times it even creeps others out.

Between big nights out in Brooklyn and Manhattan I had a couple sessions at a brand new climbing wall in Brooklyn called Brooklyn Boulders. I was very impressed with this facility and so stoked for the once S.O.L. urban climber in the city who had no place to call home. Well folks, this is your new house!! I'm going to put together an extended review from the perspective of a long time route setter and plastic rock climber within the next few days complete with beta and photos- stay tuned.

photos: chillaxin in Crown Heights. it called a jump shot and they're hilarious.

Legend of the White Buffalo

Fall colors at the Wild Iris were out of control!! We had no idea what we were in for, but this past weekend could have very well been peak for the area. On Friday night we immediately got started with the try-hard, as Paige Claassen and I both got inspired by this amazing boulder with bolts right in the camp ground called the 'White Buffalo' 13d. As the setting sun burnt a beautiful red horizon in the background I managed a headlamp assisted ascent of this delicate, incredible route (boulder) - my hardest headlamp ascent yet! Saturday turned out to be a warm day in the Wyoming semi-alpine and I was kicking myself for having forgotten shorts. Paige had one of the most inspiring days of climbing I've ever seen, meanwhile I was steady punting. She hammered out an on-sight on a truly awesome, short and difficult 13- called 'When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy' and then after an afternoon bronzing she finished off her day with a send of 'White Buffalo'... completely sickening... Sunday I pulled it together and did a really cool one-of-a-kind route called 'Cowboy King' 13c that begins with an impossibly thin no-holds slab and ends with a giant horizontal roof of campus moves and deep pockets. I also fired through a couple easier 13's on the Erratic and the Rodeo Wave to top off a great day. We both left with rather large smiles- the temps and scenery were exceptional.

Back in Boulder now and the temps are frigid!! must be baking season already- I make a hell of a muffin. I'm headed out of town to visit some good buddies and check out a new climbing gym in Brooklyn on Thursday that I will be reporting on.. back to NYC for a few long nights of rump shaking. Maybe by the time I get back to the front range the temps will inspire some fall sending.

October 7! Mark that calender right here and now. Andy Mann and I are putting on a ridiculous slide-show at the Boulder Rock Club titled.. 'Colorado Burl and Beyond'. There will be free beer, a raffle, good times and oh yea KILLER IMAGES. more details to come.

Some people are simply crazy about electronic music. I am one of those 'some people'. If you're not the type then you could probably go without reading the following paragraph.. if you are however, you will surely be aware that DJ MAG's top 100 DJ's poll is almost closed! Voting ends Sept 23rd. This annual poll remains the gold standard upon which fans and enthusiasts can voice their experiences with the world's best DJ's and totally influence the coming years music scene. After hundreds of dollars spent buying and thousands of hours spent listening to this and that electronic I casted my top five votes last week with the groundbreaking Deadmau5 in my top spot, my long time favorite Sasha in second, Dubfire in 3rd- Deadmau5 has definitely had the most influence on my listening preferences over the past year and I am continually blown away by his consistent studio track quality. I've yet to see him in concert- but that's what Nov 4 at the Ogden is for.. While I'm spraying about minimal music I may as well express my sizable stoke level for my fresh set of headphones- I freakin went for it and bought some Audio-Technica ATH-ES7's and I can not seem to take them off (on my head right now). These things blow my Sony V700DJs out of the water, all day.

Okay, enough music spray.. aint this supposed to be a rock climbing web-site?!!?

Keep your eyes peeled for Urban Climber Issue #33 !!!! I'm beyond stoked.. stay tuned.

photos: The Iris... some call it 'toad in the hole' or 'eggie in the basket', I call it- breakfast of champions.

Rally for the Fall!

All of a sudden the Equinox appears on my calendar, just a few days ahead of me. Whoa. Come to think of it, I have been wearing a hoodie in the morning with my coffee, and I did hear a surprising number of 'it's chilly' comments last night while eating dinner outside at Sherpas. A few rogue leaves have made a color change and I can't quite comfortably sleep with all the windows in my house wide open any more.. I'm not ready to proclaim it fall quite yet, but I can feel the makings of it. You know what this means? Fellow rock climbers living in the northern hemisphere... soon.. soon it is our time to shine. Our beloved fall season is just around the corner, do you know where your power is?!?! I know school just started, and maybe work is bustin' your balls, but this is our time people! Whether you're a weekend warrior, an afterwork sessioner, a full-time climber or a once-a-month-if-I'm-lucky type.. let's freakin get after it! Our projects don't stand a chance in these conditions, and it's only getting better.

I'm hitting the road shortly and motoring northward to my second favorite foothills town.. Lander, Wyoming. I can't get enough! so much fun up there. Paige Claassen and I will be tearing it up, most likely at Wild Iris, for a couple days. Last weekend we all had a ball destroying the Killer Cave and enjoying some wicked sun shine. Everybody sent something and most of us shined, yeah! although my draws are still swinging in the breeze up there..

Speaking of (not) sending projects.. The Triple Crown Bouldering Series is about to kick off and this year LaSportiva is offering up tons of goodies (including 4 pr shoes!) to those who are willing to record their experiences at any of these three events and share them. I think this is a cool opportunity not only to potentially win some killer gear but also to share photos, laughs, successes and failures with fellow climbers. Go here to read more about it...

I've been putting together some promo material for an amazing slide-show that Andy Mann and I are putting on October 7th at the BRC. It's called Colorado Burl and Beyond and it will be a knee-slapping good time characterized by a couple of my stories and some breathtaking images from the MANN himself. Stay tuned for free beer, a dope raffle and two good looking gents getting all red in the face in front of lots of people!!!

I have more crap to spray about (I actually made a list.. such a dork I know) but right now I gotta pack the Subaru and hit the highway- mono's await!! Enjoy your weekend.

photos: the crew gears up for some Sinks A0 shit! Paige is a BOSS. I'm snacking Mac and Cheese out of a bag, who says climbers don't have class!?

Brilliance

Some climbing days are simply brilliant. Everybody has their own definition of brilliant, but here is mine: Sun, clouds, solitude, a stout hike, good friends, remote setting, inspiring rock climbs. I've been lucky to have had a number of such days recently, but yesterday was simply over the top radical. I've been quoted stating that my favorite crag I have ever been to is the Monastery near Estes Park and days like yesterday reinforce this heart felt belief. Alone all day, under vibrant sunshine, my buddy Ben Randolph and I cranked at this world-class cliff. Despite spending many days projecting all the cliff's best routes over the years, I still love to return and enjoy the setting and climbs here. Yesterday I managed a repeat of the truly amazing 'Third Millennium' 13d (my first of the grade a few years back) sticking to the original beta moving directly through the 3rd to 4th bolt up a ladder of powerful, crimp gastons- unbelievably good rock climbing. I also did a couple repeats on 'The Quickening' 13c (my first ever 5.13) and also on possibly the states best 12d 'Psychotomic'. Even the brutal uphill slog at the end of the day could not wipe the smile off my face.

Tomorrow morning I'm off to catch a tan in Wyoming and get my pocket cranking fix- definitely another one of my favorite spots. I'll be seeing a number of you at the world premier of the Reel Rock Film Tour tonight I imagine! cheers.

photo: Keith Ladzinski shot me on the day I first did 'Third Millennium'- a serious breakthrough in my climbing life at the time and as you can tell by the photo.. a brilliant day of climbing as well.

Laborin'!

Labor Day has come to pass, and I must say, I have been holding it down in the labor department. The past four days in a row I have put in work to finish up remaining routes and routes in need of attention at the Wizards Gate. After a very busy, albeit inspiring few weeks, I can proudly say that my work is done up there. My drill, bolting gear, static rope, a plethora of quickdraws and other random niceties are all here now, in the comfort of the Estes cabin. The stash is out, the routes are installed and the crag is wicked. I invested hundreds of dollars, 12-15 days of work and a whole lot of Justin's Nut Butter in this crag and I couldn't be more stoked on it (well... maybe..). My dad and I bolted over a dozen routes ranging from 5.9 to 5.14, including some wicked granite slabs and in my opinion two of the areas best 5.13+'s. It is definitely cooling off up in the high country, but pick a warm day and come sample this gem area before the season ends!!

I've got some Metolius bolt hangers and a bit of a battery charge left- guess I should find another cliff to develop, ASAP. And that is just my plan. I've got a few good hunches and plenty of leftover hardware to keep me busy.

If all goes as planned, the hyper strong Paige Claassen, Neely 'Killer' Quinn and I are heading to Lander, Wyoming for some delicious limestone pockets this weekend. I've got some unfinished business up there that needs to be executed, and Paige and Neely are in top shape to flash the whole Killer Cave. Should be fun.

If you don't already have an Urban Climber subscription, now is the time, cause the next issue features some outstanding Andy Mann photos and a feature article written by.. yours truly! On that note, if you don't already have tickets to this years Reel Rock Tour, now is the time-premier is thursday night at the Boulder Theatre.. Tommy on El Cap, K Jorg in Bishop, Sharma on Jumbo ??? dope. See you there.

photos: Andy Mann shoots magic of me on 'Cloak and Dagger'.. a busy day of sending at the Wizards Gate.